The illustrations in the instructions of this dollhouse are pretty decent. They are actually more helpful than the worded instructions. This is typical of all dollhouse instructions. Look at the illustrations very carefully as you assemble to make sure you are doing each step correctly.
The side walls, middle and upper floor go on first. This is pretty simple because the parts are thick enough to stand on their own, so you will not have parts falling over as you try to glue them in place.
Once you have the two side walls, middle and upper floors together, you can carefully flip the structure right side up and then clamp it with masking tape. Again, the thick parts and the grooves on the interior of the side walls, helps the structure stay in place during careful repositioning.
Once the structure is right side up, you can place the bottom floor between the two side walls, following the grooves, and glue in place. Clamp with masking tape.
Before the glue dries, but after it's tacky enough for the structure to be handled again, install the front wall.
I recommend you do as the instructions suggest, of placing the room partitions temporarily in place to straighten the middle floor. This will make installation of the front wall easier. Make sure that the front wall is flush, on all sides, with the side walls, bottom floor and top floor. Clamp tightly with masking tape.
Glue
These parts are very heavy, so I used wood glue to assemble the shell.
Remember that wood glue does not dry clear, so you have to be careful with the scored hardwood floors. Make sure that you wipe away any glue that might get on them. Also, keep the glue as close to the wall edge as possible, so that it can be hidden under baseboards.
Nails
If you want a durable dollhouse then I recommend using the nails. The nails can only be used to attach the side and front walls, to the middle and top floors ONLY.
Find a hard surface to place your dollhouse on in order to drive the nails into it. It will make them go in easier.
For the side walls, place a nail at each end and in the middle. Remember to be cautious with the staircase opening. For the front wall, there should be a nail on each end and two in the middle. Space them out as evenly as you can but don't worry, since they will be invisible in the end.
The most important thing is to not miss the floors with your nails. If you do, you will have nails poking out in the interior walls or you could damage the floors. Use the clapboard siding lines, as a guide. Also drive your nails in straight. If you see a nail is going in slightly crooked, stop, remove it and drive in a new one. Do not use the same hole. Open a new hole next to the one you removed the nail from.
Use a nail setter to push the nail heads into the wood, so they are invisible. If you don't have a nail setter, you can use a Phillips head screwdriver. It works just as well.
Spackling Compound
Use spackle to fill in the small holes. Wait for the spackle to dry thoroughly, preferably overnight, and then use your fingernail to scrape it smooth against the wall. Avoid sanding. It will be very difficult to sand the spackle because the area is so small and it is very easy to damage the pre-milled siding. Never sand pre-milled sided walls! Your fingernail will work very well for these small areas and help define the pre-milled siding if spackle became lodged along the lines.
Gap Fill
I did not install the "gap fill" piece yet. This goes along the staircase opening, to cover the groove in the wall. It's best to leave this piece for after you wallpaper. That way you will get a nice, cleaner finish.
