The Loganberry Mill Dollhouse Day 2

Now that the dollhouse is dry, I removed the masking tape and applied wood glue to every joint where the walls meet. This step is crucial for any build because the glue seeps into areas that tacky glue might have missed, reinforcing the structure. Remember, the strength of your dollhouse depends on its basic structure. Regardless of the size, a strong and sturdy shell is essential for durability. 

Be sure to turn the dollhouse upside down and on its side to reach all ceiling joints and vertical wall joints. Allow the dollhouse to dry completely before painting. If you skip this step, the glue may not dry properly or could shift when wet paint is applied. Painting or finishing while the glue is still wet can cause wood to warp, expand, or contract with moisture, potentially pulling walls apart. 

Once the glue has dried, I finished both the interior and exterior of the dollhouse. I started by priming it with basic white paint. You can use any light-colored paint you have on hand, whether it's latex or acrylic. Just avoid oil-based paint, as it won't allow finishing products like wallpaper or flooring to adhere properly. The primer coat doesn't need to be perfect; one coat is sufficient. Don't worry about uneven spots; just ensure everything is primed. Make sure not to prime any areas you plan to stain. For example, if you want to stain the original wood flooring, cover it while priming to protect it from paint. I chose to prime my floors because I plan to cover them. 

I mixed lightweight spackle with white paint and textured the entire dollhouse with this mixture. After it dries, you will need to paint over the spackle, even if it's mixed with paint. I applied spackle to both the inside and outside of the dollhouse, and once it dried, I repainted the exterior white and the interior a bright yellow. I felt this cheerful yellow would complement the Spanish style I envision for the dollhouse.