Now that I have applied wood glue to all the joints and everything is dry, it's time to start stoning the dollhouse. I can leave the roof assembly for later, as it’s not necessary for this step. I'm using Creative Paperclay because it air dries, bonds well with wood, is ready to use right out of the package, and is lightweight. There's no single method for this process; you'll find what works best for you after completing the first wall.
For me, the easiest way is to open the package, take out a clump of clay, and flatten it with my palm. Then, I place it on the wall and spread it around until the surface is covered. The clay has a consistency similar to Play-Doh. Some people prefer to use a rolling pin to flatten the clay. I’ve tried this, but I find it easier to use my hands. If you do use a rolling pin, be aware that the clay can stick to it. To prevent this, place parchment paper over the clay while rolling it out. You can also put parchment paper underneath to keep it from sticking to your work surface. A marble rolling pin won’t allow the clay to stick, but they can be expensive. A wooden rolling pin works just fine if you use parchment paper between it and the clay. To get the best grip on the clay, flatten it on a solid, stable surface. The clay is dense, so you'll need to apply some force.
The package doesn’t specify drying time, so you’ll have to experiment. Avoid turning on fans while working with the clay to minimize drying time until you finish stamping your pattern. Based on my experience, it takes about an hour for the clay to feel solid to the touch and roughly 24 hours to cure completely. This gives you plenty of time to perfect your work before it dries fully. You can handle the clay with your hands without worry; it's non-toxic and doesn’t require ventilation or gloves.
While working with Paperclay can be messy, it's forgiving. Mistakes in your pattern can easily be pressed away and redone. When applying a flattened piece of clay to a wall, it may not stick immediately. You’ll need to smear it around with your palm. As it dries a bit, it will adhere better. It’s best to position the dollhouse so that the wall you're working on is facing up; applying clay vertically can lead to frustration as it may fall off. Ensure that the clay is evenly distributed across the wall. Wetting your hands can help smooth its surface more easily. You can easily remove excess clay from window and door openings by pressing against their edges, which will create clean cuts.
There are countless stone patterns you can create based on your desired look for the dollhouse. You could even make a brick pattern if you prefer. For my dollhouse, I chose large square stones since this is my first time using Paperclay and I wanted an easy pattern. I used a piece of siding to measure line widths and cut cardboard pieces as guides for stone sizes. I aimed for a rough texture rather than a smooth finish. I recommend doing one wall at a time; one package of clay typically covers one wall of this size, possibly more if there are no windows or doors like on one side of my dollhouse. The clay adheres well between wet and dry patches, so it's fine if one wall dries while you still have more areas to cover. Doing one wall at a time is important because smoothing out each section takes time. Walls with more windows or bays will require even more effort. If you try to do all walls at once, some may dry before you can stamp your stone pattern.
Once you've stamped your pattern into wet clay, be careful not to touch or hold that side while working on another wall; this could smudge your design. When stamping patterns, press inward instead of scraping across; scraping can disturb the surrounding clay and create messiness. I intentionally varied my lines and stone sizes for a more natural look. My pattern shifted slightly near the foundation on one side wall—though not very noticeable—this happened because I didn’t catch it in time before the clay dried. Always start with a side wall rather than the front wall so you can practice without making noticeable mistakes that would affect the dollhouse's appearance. If you make an error in your pattern, simply smear away the clay and redo it before it dries.
For inner corners, like those in bay windows, push the clay firmly into place to maintain sharp corners instead of rounded ones. For outer corners, wrap the clay around and pinch it slightly for defined edges. The clay starts off white but can be painted with acrylic or latex paints once dry.
Today I managed to complete both the right and front walls. Now I need to let everything dry before continuing with the rest of the walls.