Before starting your dollhouse, read through the Greenleaf Warm-Up Sheet. It contains valuable information and tips for assembly.
Die-cut plywood dollhouses often have a reputation for poor fitting parts, but in 99% of cases, this is due to improper assembly of the shell. Only 1% of issues arise from misalignment with the dye stamp, which is very rare.
Assembly begins at the base of the dollhouse. If the base is even slightly misaligned, it will affect the entire structure. As you add more parts, misalignment can worsen. By the time you reach the roof, what started as a minor issue can result in significant discrepancies.
Misalignment often occurs because tabs do not fit into their corresponding slots. Sometimes, slots are too narrow for the tabs, or finished parts may swell due to moisture from paint or wallpaper paste. A single tab that doesn't fit can lead to major problems.
First-time builders may feel frustrated when tabs do not fit. Many might skip inserting a tab or leave a gap due to exhaustion from struggling with it. However, this can lead to significant mistakes. Tabs and slots are essential for ensuring that walls and floors align correctly during assembly. They also provide strength to joints and keep the dollhouse stable. It is crucial to ensure all tabs fit fully into their slots, starting from the base.
Below is a list of tips for correctly assembling a dollhouse shell and overcoming tab and slot challenges. Although this guide focuses on dye-cut, tab-and-slot dollhouses, these tips are applicable to any wooden dollhouse kit.
Check Your Materials
Once your work area is ready, ensure you have all the necessary materials for assembling the dollhouse shell.
You will need:
- Pencil
- Craft/utility knife
- Black marker
- Wood glue
- Tacky glue
- Masking tape
- Medium grit sandpaper and sanding block
- Nail file
- Small, sharp scissors
- Rubber mallet
- Binder clips and clamps
- 2 - 5 lb handheld weights (2 or more)
About Hot Melt Glue
Avoid using hot melt glue to assemble your dollhouse shell, even if the instructions suggest it. For a durable and well-built dollhouse, use a combination of tacky and wood glue, allowing sufficient drying time.
Here are the drawbacks of hot melt glue:
- It can loosen and crack over time, leading to structural failure.
- It makes the dollhouse too rigid, causing parts to fit improperly.
- It dries thickly between surfaces, preventing tight and flush joints.
- It creates unsightly blobs and "spider webs," which can interfere with finishes.
- It dries too quickly, making it hard to position parts correctly.
- It poses a burn risk when using a glue gun during complex assembly.
While many dollhouses have been built with hot melt glue, it’s not worth the risk. It's better to be safe than sorry. Hot melt glue is not suitable for wooden dollhouse construction; it should only be used for applying shingles or siding or temporarily holding loose parts until your glue dries.
Check Your Dollhouse Kit
When you open your dollhouse kit for the first time, be careful to cut the packing tape only at the box seams. Avoid cutting the box in half, as this could damage the windows, instructions, and schematics that may be on top of the wooden sheets.
Open the box and find the windows, schematics, and instruction sheets. Store the windows away from your kit and work area since they are fragile and can easily get scratched. Do not remove them from their protective film or bring them into your work area until you are ready to install them.
Read all the instructions before you start assembling. This will help you understand each step and familiarize yourself with all the parts of your dollhouse. Some instructions include specific tips for each step that you might miss if you read them during assembly. They may also suggest recommended finishes for your kit.
Verify that your kit is complete. Sometimes kits can have missing sheets or scratched windows. Compare each sheet with the schematic drawings and use a black marker to label each plywood sheet with its number. This will make it easier to read and find the sheets later. Be sure to write the number over the original stamped number so you don't accidentally mark a needed part.
If any parts are missing, contact the manufacturer. If you purchased your dollhouse from a retailer, they will likely replace any missing parts at no cost, though you may need to pay for shipping. If your dollhouse is from a manufacturer that is no longer in business, you will need to create the missing parts yourself. Often, you can use existing parts as templates (for example, a missing right wall can often be made using the left wall as a guide). This is also true for missing floors.
Options for missing parts:
Check Your Dollhouse Kit
When you open your dollhouse kit for the first time, be careful to cut the packing tape only at the box seams. Avoid cutting the box in half, as this could damage the windows, instructions, and schematics that may be on top of the wooden sheets.
Open the box and find the windows, schematics, and instruction sheets. Store the windows away from your kit and work area since they are fragile and can easily get scratched. Do not remove them from their protective film or bring them into your work area until you are ready to install them.
Read all the instructions before you start assembling. This will help you understand each step and familiarize yourself with all the parts of your dollhouse. Some instructions include specific tips for each step that you might miss if you read them during assembly. They may also suggest recommended finishes for your kit.
Verify that your kit is complete. Sometimes kits can have missing sheets or scratched windows. Compare each sheet with the schematic drawings and use a black marker to label each plywood sheet with its number. This will make it easier to read and find the sheets later. Be sure to write the number over the original stamped number so you don't accidentally mark a needed part.
If any parts are missing, contact the manufacturer. If you purchased your dollhouse from a retailer, they will likely replace any missing parts at no cost, though you may need to pay for shipping. If your dollhouse is from a manufacturer that is no longer in business, you will need to create the missing parts yourself. Often, you can use existing parts as templates (for example, a missing right wall can often be made using the left wall as a guide). This is also true for missing floors.
Options for missing parts:
- Using Wood from a Hardware Store - If you have power tools, you can create parts from plywood of the same thickness as your kit, available in most hardware stores.
- Using Foam Core - If you lack power tools, you can use foam core of the same thickness as your kit and cut out parts using a box cutter. Finished foam core looks like wood but cannot be stained; it must be painted or covered.
- Using Basswood or Balsa Wood - For smaller missing parts or if you want to stain them, buy basswood or balsa wood slabs from a craft store in the same thickness as your kit. These woods are ideal for making missing window, door, or porch trim because they are soft and lightweight, allowing for easy cutting with a craft knife or box cutter.
If you need larger parts but don’t want to buy a large plywood sheet, consider using thin foam core. Cut it into the shape of the missing part using an existing part as a template, then laminate it with smaller slabs of basswood or balsa wood until it is fully covered. This method is especially useful if you plan to stain the part.
Hopefully, there will be no missing parts in your kit so that you can move on to preparing for assembly.
Preparing Your Dollhouse Kit
Preparing a dollhouse kit involves some decision-making. There are two methods to consider, each with its advantages and disadvantages.
Method 1 - Keep Parts on Sheets
In this method, you leave all parts on their sheets and only remove them as needed, sanding them at that time. This method is recommended for new builders.
Advantages:
Hopefully, there will be no missing parts in your kit so that you can move on to preparing for assembly.
Preparing Your Dollhouse Kit
Preparing a dollhouse kit involves some decision-making. There are two methods to consider, each with its advantages and disadvantages.
Method 1 - Keep Parts on Sheets
In this method, you leave all parts on their sheets and only remove them as needed, sanding them at that time. This method is recommended for new builders.
Advantages:
- Easier Identification - Keeping parts on their sheets helps you find them quickly.
- Reduced Risk of Loss - There's less chance of losing small or mislabeled parts.
- Less Confusion - Parts align with the sheet schematics, making it easier to follow instructions.
- Space and Time Consuming - You need a designated area to flip through large sheets to find the right part.
- Messy Workspace - Continuous removal of parts creates wood scraps, which can lead to clutter as parts may fall out of the sheets.
- Frequent Interruptions - You must pause assembly to sand parts as you go, creating sanding dust that accumulates over time and must be repeatedly cleaned.
Method 2 - Prepare All Parts
This method involves removing all parts from their sheets, sanding them, and organizing them by component. It is recommended for advanced builders.
Advantages:
This method involves removing all parts from their sheets, sanding them, and organizing them by component. It is recommended for advanced builders.
Advantages:
- Ready to Use - All parts are prepared in advance, allowing for a smoother workflow without interruptions.
- Less Clutter - No need to store large plywood sheets; parts are neatly bagged.
- One-Time Cleanup - You only deal with wood scraps and sanding dust once during the project.
- Careful Labeling Required - You must label parts accurately to avoid confusion later.
- Risk of Losing Small Parts - With many tiny pieces that look similar, it's easy to misplace them if not organized properly.
- Potential for Loss During Removal - Removing parts can lead to losing them if they aren't labeled and stored immediately.
Ultimately, it's up to the builder to choose the method that works best for them. What suits one dollhouse may not suit another. Always choose the approach that feels most comfortable for you; there is no right or wrong way to proceed.
Getting Ready
Before discarding the kit's box, always cut out the photo of the dollhouse from the box. This photo is often the only high-quality image of the assembled dollhouse and can be very helpful during construction.
Keep the bottom of the kit box. Flatten or cut off the sides to use it as a turntable, allowing easy access to your dollhouse from all angles while you build.
About Sealing Wood
Do not use a sealant on your dollhouse. Many people ask about this, and while some older instructions recommend sealing the wood with shellac to protect it, this will only cause for it to be protected from paint, glue, and paste, which are all needed for proper assembly. These materials need to adhere well to the wood and a sealant will prevent that.
Your dollhouse wood does not require any treatment. When you're ready to finish your dollhouse, use a light-colored, matte primer to prepare the wood for wallpapering.
Punching Parts Out
Always punch out pieces from the front to the back. The front side of the parts sheet shows clear die cuts and is the "good side" where you will apply finishes like paint or stain. If you encounter stubborn parts, you can use the eraser end of a pencil to help punch them out.
In some cases, you may need a utility knife to assist in removing parts if the die machine did not cut all the way through. This issue is rare with new kits but may occur with older ones.
Starting Assembly
After deciding how to prepare your kit, the next step is to start.
Always follow the instructions when assembling your dollhouse shell. They will guide you step by step. If you skip ahead, you may find it difficult to install the top floors because the walls could block your way. If you accidentally skip a wall, it might be impossible to install it later due to other walls and floors. It is important to take it one step at a time and understand the order of the steps.
Use tacky glue for assembly. It is thick and does not drip easily, allowing it to stay in place even when parts are turned at different angles.
Be mindful of the next step in the instructions as you finish the current one. This will help you determine if you can pause the assembly and return to it later. In some cases, you must continue assembling before the glue dries to ensure proper fitting of parts. A rigid shell can lead to unexpected problems.
Using tacky and wood glue allows for more time to fit parts correctly due to the longer drying time. However, be cautious and check if your kit requires flexibility for further assembly. The instructions will indicate this in advance, so it's important not to rush. Follow the steps in order.
Keep in mind that wood glue does not dry clear, so avoid applying it on finished surfaces or areas you plan to stain.
If you want to write the date the dollhouse was assembled or sign your name, now is the time. Simply turn it upside down and sign on the bottom of the base.
Planning Ahead
Do not apply any finishes, such as wallpaper, flooring, or ceiling paper, to your dollhouse until the shell is completely finished. Applying finishes too early can damage them during assembly and interfere with the fit of parts. The only exception is when you need to finish areas that will be inaccessible later, like stairwells or closets.
As you assemble the walls and floors, pay attention to areas that will become hard to reach. These should be finished while you are putting the shell together; otherwise, you won't be able to access them later. This is especially important for L-shaped dollhouses, like the Garfield and Pierce Dollhouses.
Dollhouse assembly instructions do not consider the application of finishes. If you notice an area that won't be accessible after assembly, make sure to finish it beforehand. Sometimes, instructions may suggest delaying assembly of a certain area, but if you need to apply finishes first, go ahead and do so. The ability to apply finishes takes priority over following assembly instructions. You will always be able to finish an area even if it conflicts with the instructions.
Don't be deceived by smaller dollhouses with fewer rooms. Although all areas will be accessible once assembled, you may struggle to finish the attic after it's put together.
Attic rooms often have slanted walls and small spaces, making wallpapering challenging. These walls are typically the interior of roof panels. It's best to wallpaper and finish these walls before installing the roof, which requires careful planning and measuring. Use the slots along the roof panels as a guide to determine which areas will be attic walls and which will be exterior eaves. The space between these slots is where you'll apply wallpaper.
If your dollhouse has a slanted attic, consider pausing assembly before attaching the roof panels. Finish the lower floors first, then proceed with the attic and roof.
Ensure all your wallpaper designs are oriented correctly while applying them to the unassembled roof panels. It can be confusing, so do not paste or glue anything until you are sure of the placement. Perform dry fits and test runs as often as needed until you feel confident. Always order extra wallpaper for attics, as they have many walls to cover.
Do not apply ceiling or flooring trim to your dollhouse before it is fully assembled, unless you have an area that will be inaccessible after assembly. Applying trim too early may cause parts to fit improperly on your dollhouse.
Delaminated and Warped Wood
You might find delaminated or warped wood while building your dollhouse. Neither issue will stop the structure from being assembled.
Getting Ready
Before discarding the kit's box, always cut out the photo of the dollhouse from the box. This photo is often the only high-quality image of the assembled dollhouse and can be very helpful during construction.
Keep the bottom of the kit box. Flatten or cut off the sides to use it as a turntable, allowing easy access to your dollhouse from all angles while you build.
About Sealing Wood
Do not use a sealant on your dollhouse. Many people ask about this, and while some older instructions recommend sealing the wood with shellac to protect it, this will only cause for it to be protected from paint, glue, and paste, which are all needed for proper assembly. These materials need to adhere well to the wood and a sealant will prevent that.
Your dollhouse wood does not require any treatment. When you're ready to finish your dollhouse, use a light-colored, matte primer to prepare the wood for wallpapering.
Punching Parts Out
Always punch out pieces from the front to the back. The front side of the parts sheet shows clear die cuts and is the "good side" where you will apply finishes like paint or stain. If you encounter stubborn parts, you can use the eraser end of a pencil to help punch them out.
In some cases, you may need a utility knife to assist in removing parts if the die machine did not cut all the way through. This issue is rare with new kits but may occur with older ones.
Starting Assembly
After deciding how to prepare your kit, the next step is to start.
Always follow the instructions when assembling your dollhouse shell. They will guide you step by step. If you skip ahead, you may find it difficult to install the top floors because the walls could block your way. If you accidentally skip a wall, it might be impossible to install it later due to other walls and floors. It is important to take it one step at a time and understand the order of the steps.
Use tacky glue for assembly. It is thick and does not drip easily, allowing it to stay in place even when parts are turned at different angles.
Be mindful of the next step in the instructions as you finish the current one. This will help you determine if you can pause the assembly and return to it later. In some cases, you must continue assembling before the glue dries to ensure proper fitting of parts. A rigid shell can lead to unexpected problems.
Using tacky and wood glue allows for more time to fit parts correctly due to the longer drying time. However, be cautious and check if your kit requires flexibility for further assembly. The instructions will indicate this in advance, so it's important not to rush. Follow the steps in order.
Once the shell is assembled, apply wood glue to every seam and joint to reinforce the structure. Wood glue is runny and will fill any gaps left by the tacky glue. It's okay if it gets a bit messy, as this is the dollhouse's shell and will be covered with finishes later. While wood glue is visible when wet, it will soak into the wood and become semi-transparent as it dries.
Keep in mind that wood glue does not dry clear, so avoid applying it on finished surfaces or areas you plan to stain.
If you want to write the date the dollhouse was assembled or sign your name, now is the time. Simply turn it upside down and sign on the bottom of the base.
Planning Ahead
Do not apply any finishes, such as wallpaper, flooring, or ceiling paper, to your dollhouse until the shell is completely finished. Applying finishes too early can damage them during assembly and interfere with the fit of parts. The only exception is when you need to finish areas that will be inaccessible later, like stairwells or closets.
As you assemble the walls and floors, pay attention to areas that will become hard to reach. These should be finished while you are putting the shell together; otherwise, you won't be able to access them later. This is especially important for L-shaped dollhouses, like the Garfield and Pierce Dollhouses.
Dollhouse assembly instructions do not consider the application of finishes. If you notice an area that won't be accessible after assembly, make sure to finish it beforehand. Sometimes, instructions may suggest delaying assembly of a certain area, but if you need to apply finishes first, go ahead and do so. The ability to apply finishes takes priority over following assembly instructions. You will always be able to finish an area even if it conflicts with the instructions.
Don't be deceived by smaller dollhouses with fewer rooms. Although all areas will be accessible once assembled, you may struggle to finish the attic after it's put together.
Attic rooms often have slanted walls and small spaces, making wallpapering challenging. These walls are typically the interior of roof panels. It's best to wallpaper and finish these walls before installing the roof, which requires careful planning and measuring. Use the slots along the roof panels as a guide to determine which areas will be attic walls and which will be exterior eaves. The space between these slots is where you'll apply wallpaper.
If your dollhouse has a slanted attic, consider pausing assembly before attaching the roof panels. Finish the lower floors first, then proceed with the attic and roof.
Ensure all your wallpaper designs are oriented correctly while applying them to the unassembled roof panels. It can be confusing, so do not paste or glue anything until you are sure of the placement. Perform dry fits and test runs as often as needed until you feel confident. Always order extra wallpaper for attics, as they have many walls to cover.
Do not apply ceiling or flooring trim to your dollhouse before it is fully assembled, unless you have an area that will be inaccessible after assembly. Applying trim too early may cause parts to fit improperly on your dollhouse.
Delaminated and Warped Wood
You might find delaminated or warped wood while building your dollhouse. Neither issue will stop the structure from being assembled.
- Delaminated wood in dollhouses is usually not a significant problem. The rough sides where delamination occurs are typically hidden by glue or wallpaper. Wallpaper can smooth out and conceal any imperfections, making repairs unnecessary in most cases.
- Warped wood generally corrects itself during assembly as parts are fitted together. If warping is severe, sheets can be flattened by soaking in water and drying under weights in sunlight. However, this extra step is rarely needed.
The main exception is warped front panels in front-opening dollhouses. These panels, attached only by hinges, cannot self-correct during assembly. A warped front panel may affect the dollhouse's appearance and functionality. To prevent warping in front panels, finish both sides simultaneously. If a panel is already warped, either attempt to flatten it using the water and weight method or request a replacement from the manufacturer.
Broken Parts
Parts can sometimes break when being removed from their sheets or during sanding. Some dollhouse pieces, like gingerbread, are quite delicate, and you may encounter broken parts occasionally. Simply glue the piece back together, clamp it, and sand the seam smooth. Since it's just wood, it can be repaired, and once finished, no one will notice the repair.
It's crucial to fit tabs into their slots properly. The dollhouse's sturdy plywood construction can withstand significant pressure, so don't hesitate to use force when necessary. Here are some tips to help:
Sand down any tabs that are sticking out from your walls and floors. These tabs can disrupt the installation of flooring and siding. Remember to check your interior walls too, as a protruding tab can damage your wallpaper or create lumps.
Use spackle to cover sanded tabs on surfaces you intend to paint, and use stainable wood filler on surfaces you plan to stain.
Many first-time dollhouse builders think that gaps and misalignment should never occur during construction, but this is not the case. You will likely encounter one or both issues.
Broken Parts
Parts can sometimes break when being removed from their sheets or during sanding. Some dollhouse pieces, like gingerbread, are quite delicate, and you may encounter broken parts occasionally. Simply glue the piece back together, clamp it, and sand the seam smooth. Since it's just wood, it can be repaired, and once finished, no one will notice the repair.
It's crucial to fit tabs into their slots properly. The dollhouse's sturdy plywood construction can withstand significant pressure, so don't hesitate to use force when necessary. Here are some tips to help:
- Sand down slot edges or tabs for a better fit.
- Gently widen slots using a flat-head screwdriver, then sand any splinters.
- Use a rubber mallet to firmly hammer tabs into slots.
- As a last resort, cut off the tab if all other methods fail.
Remember, tabs reinforce connections, guide alignment, and help straighten warped sheets, especially floors. Avoid cutting tabs unnecessarily.
Sand down any tabs that are sticking out from your walls and floors. These tabs can disrupt the installation of flooring and siding. Remember to check your interior walls too, as a protruding tab can damage your wallpaper or create lumps.
Use spackle to cover sanded tabs on surfaces you intend to paint, and use stainable wood filler on surfaces you plan to stain.
Many first-time dollhouse builders think that gaps and misalignment should never occur during construction, but this is not the case. You will likely encounter one or both issues.
- Gaps are common and unavoidable. Your dollhouse shell may have some gaps, but they should not be excessive or highly visible if assembled correctly. These gaps will be hidden when you apply finishes to your dollhouse. To smooth out gaps on painted surfaces, use a lightweight spackling compound while stainable wood filler works well for surfaces you plan to stain. Minor gaps along floors and ceilings can be concealed with trim.
- Misalignment of certain parts is another frequent issue, especially where two gable panels meet at the top of the roof. As long as all tabs are properly inserted into their slots, this is not a cause for concern. Misalignment is not due to incorrect assembly; it results from slight inconsistencies in the die stamp cuts. Shingles, roof trim, and finials are designed to cover these minor defects while also enhancing the beauty of your dollhouse kit.
Glue Interference
Your dollhouse will have glue along the edges of the interior floors, as all joints should be glued if assembled correctly. This glue may appear as a wet area along the floor edges.
While the amount of glue should not be excessive, if you plan to stain the original floors, it's important to lightly sand the edges to remove some glue. This will help the stain penetrate better. Apply the stain around the glued areas instead of directly on them, allowing it to soak into the wood beneath the glue and match the surrounding floors.
Additionally, baseboard trim can cover any visible glue once you finish your floors.
Your dollhouse will have glue along the edges of the interior floors, as all joints should be glued if assembled correctly. This glue may appear as a wet area along the floor edges.
While the amount of glue should not be excessive, if you plan to stain the original floors, it's important to lightly sand the edges to remove some glue. This will help the stain penetrate better. Apply the stain around the glued areas instead of directly on them, allowing it to soak into the wood beneath the glue and match the surrounding floors.
Additionally, baseboard trim can cover any visible glue once you finish your floors.
