Shingling with birch veneer or cedar shakes is the most common method for finishing dollhouse roofs, but other options exist. These alternatives can be used instead of or in combination with traditional shingling.
Copper Roofs
Copper roofs are a popular choice, but materials can be challenging to find. While real copper sheets and copper-colored cardstock are options, they can be expensive or hard to work with. An easier method is using copper metallic paint, available in spray cans or as acrylic craft paint. High-quality brands like Folk Art or Americana work well for this purpose.
To create a copper roof:
- Start by adding joint strips using strip wood from craft stores, which is easier to find than copper tape.
- Space the strips evenly, with the width and spacing based on your preferred style.
- Use copper metallic paint to cover the roof and strips.
For inspiration, you can search online for images of copper roofs to guide your design. There's no single correct approach, so feel free to customize the look to suit your project.
After the joint strips have dried, apply copper paint to your roof. Multiple coats are necessary for a smooth finish. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next, and lightly sand between coats.
You do not need to prepare the roof before painting, but some people choose to prime it with black paint before applying copper paint. Others prefer to use poster board or paper for a smoother finish, although these steps are not necessary. If you use high-quality paint and sand between coats, the wood grain will not show through.
Applying Copper To Mansard Panels
Mansard panels can be painted in the same way. If you want the appearance of copper shingles, simply paint your shingles copper instead of staining them.
Applying Copper To Dormer Roofs
Copper roofing is commonly used on dormer roofs. You can paint them as described above or use a copper-look cover, which is suitable since dormer roofs are smaller.
A readily available option for a copper cover is paint swatches from the hardware store's paint department. Most swatches are large enough to cover small dormer roofs and come in various metallic colors. Since dormer roofs are curved, create a paper template of your roof first, then cut the paint swatch to fit.
Next, glue the paint swatch to your dormer roof. Since the roofs are curved, you will need to use clamps to hold the paint swatch in place until the glue dries.
Be careful when clamping paint swatches, as masking tape can tear them and some clamps can leave indentations. Paint swatches are made of thick cardstock that can easily get indented, especially with metallic finishes, which show indentations more prominently and cannot be repaired. Fortunately, the swatches are free, so you can always get more if one is damaged. Clamp gently.
Applying Copper To Tower Roofs
Copper finishes can also be used for tower roofs. Trace your wooden tower roof panels onto poster board and cut them out. Black poster board works best with metallic copper paints. Discard your wooden panels and use the poster board panels for assembling your tower roof. These panels will create a proper mansard curve and tight flush joints.
Instead of cutting the joint edges to make them flush, sand them down with fine-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish without jagged edges. You can also fill any small gaps with lightweight spackling compound.
Now, paint your tower panels with high-quality metallic copper paint. You will need about three to four coats, ensuring each coat dries before applying the next one.
You can decorate your finished copper tower roof with copper-painted trim and decorative finials.
Sandpaper Roofs
Sandpaper is a popular choice for covering porch, bay, and flat roofs in tab-and-slot dollhouses. It comes in various colors and sizes, so shop around for the appropriate size sheets.
Applying Sandpaper To Flat Roofs
Before applying sandpaper, prime the roof with a dark paint color that matches your chosen sandpaper. Use brown paint for brown sandpaper and gray paint for gray sandpaper. Always opt for a dark primer to prevent any lettering on the sandpaper's back from showing through. Ensure you use a flat or matte finish paint.
Once the paint is dry, create a paper template of the roof area you want to cover. This template will help you avoid unnecessary patching of sandpaper. Use it as a guide for cutting the sandpaper.
Apply the sandpaper to the roof. Thinly and evenly spreading tacky glue works best for sticking the sandpaper to flat surfaces.
Applying Sandpaper To Bay Roofs
Covering bay roofs with sandpaper is done similarly but requires a different method of adhesion.
First, prime the bay roof with paint that matches the color of your chosen sandpaper.
Create a paper template of the bay roof and use it to cut out the sandpaper.
Fit the cut sandpaper to the bay roof and continue cutting until it fits perfectly.
Use hot melt glue to attach it to the roof, as this will keep the sandpaper from lifting or shifting. Start by gluing one side, then the middle, and finally the last side. This approach ensures a proper fit. Avoid gluing all the sandpaper at once.
Keep in Mind
Patching sandpaper can be challenging, but it may be necessary. If the roof area is too large for a single piece of sandpaper, align the edges of the sheets without overlapping them. Always use the factory edges to join the pieces, as scissor-cut edges are not straight and won't fit together properly. The factory edges will align seamlessly.
Ensure there is glue under the joined edges and place weights on top while the glue dries. This will keep the edges flat and aligned. When properly butted together, the joints will be less noticeable; overlapping will make them obvious and unattractive. Try to position patched joints in less visible areas. Use a paper template of the dollhouse roof to plan before applying the sandpaper.
Be cautious with glue or paint, as they can ruin sandpaper. If either gets on the sandpaper, you will need to remove and replace it. Install sandpaper when assembly is nearly complete or cover it during assembly to prevent damage.
Textured Roofs
You can add texture to any roof using Greenleaf's Miiniature Stucco for Dollhouses or a lightweight spackling compound mixed with acrylic paint.
To create your texture, mix the spackling compound with your chosen paint color in a disposable container. The ratio of paint to spackle will affect both the color intensity and texture; a thicker mixture results in a rougher texture. Ensure that the area for texturing is smooth and that all tab slots are filled and dry. Unfilled slots may cause the spackle to sink, making them visible.
Use masking tape to protect areas where you do not want texture applied.
Apply the texture to your chosen roof with a coarse bristle paintbrush. Spread it evenly and use the brush to achieve your desired effect, such as swirls or a pebbly finish.
For roofs with large gaps at the joints, such as where two panels meet, cover the gaps with masking tape before applying your texture. The tape will be hidden under the texture.
Keep in Mind
Mixing lightweight spackling compound with paint will create a custom paint color. This means you won’t be able to touch up the roof later unless you saved some of the original mixture. If you decide to keep some for future touch-ups, store it in an airtight container to prevent mold or drying out.
Thatched Roofs
To give your dollhouse an authentic Tudor look, consider using faux fur for thatching. This method is one of the most realistic options available, and I learned it from Deb Roberts of Deb's Minis.
First, purchase faux fur from a fabric store, where you can find large enough sheets to cover your dollhouse roof. Measure your roof to determine how much fur you need. It's better to have extra material than to run short, especially since you may not find the same fur again.
Faux fur comes in various colors and textures, allowing you to achieve the desired thatched appearance. For example, I chose light brown faux fur for the Glencroft Dollhouse by Greenleaf Dollhouses.
Preparation
Start by making templates of your roof. If the roof is already attached, use paper to trace along the edges of each panel. Cut along the creased lines with scissors. If the panels are detached, you can trace them directly onto the faux fur.
Label each template with the name of the corresponding roof panel and mark each side as "FRONT" or "BACK" to ensure correct placement on the fur. Since faux fur can be costly, take these extra precautions and test your templates thoroughly before cutting the fur.
Cutting the Fur Panels
Flip the fur over so the batting side is facing up. Use either the actual wood panel or a paper template to trace your roof panel shape. Cut along the traced line using a fabric pencil or chalk to ensure visibility on the dark fur.
Place your template with the marked "FRONT" side facing down on the batting. This ensures that the fur will be on the correct side of the panel. Make sure the fur grain runs downward on all panels to avoid an uneven appearance.
If tracing is confusing, you can place your template on the fur side and cut without tracing. In this case, ensure that the "FRONT" side of the template faces up, so the fur is oriented correctly. Getting the fur positioned properly is crucial for a neat finish.
Cutting Process
Ensure you have large, sharp scissors for cutting. It can be challenging to cut the fur precisely to match your templates. Aim to cut slightly larger than the template shape to avoid being short. You will refine the fit once it’s attached to the roof panel.
If you’re cutting from the furry side, keep both the template and fur flat on a large surface to minimize shifting. Use binder clips, paper clips, or pins to hold everything in place while cutting.
Adhering the Fur
After cutting all roof panels from the fur, use tacky glue to attach each piece to its corresponding panel. If your roof isn’t assembled yet, do so before applying the fur; it’s essential to apply it on an assembled roof for proper fitting.
Once glued, trim any excess fur that hangs over to achieve a perfect fit for each panel. Always start gluing with the main roof sections first, followed by gables, ensuring that all seams are hidden and there are no gaps where panels meet.
The fur looks shiny in my photos because of the camera flash, but it doesn't appear that way in real life, even with all the lights on and the windows open. I promise you won't see shiny fur.
Remove all the loose pieces from the fur. There will be many, as faux fur sheds quite a bit, making this a messy process.
Finishing
In the photos below, you can see the true color of the thatch without using the camera flash. It looks very realistic.
To finish the fur, apply matte varnish using a stiff paintbrush, then comb it with a fine-tooth comb. Be careful not to brush too much, as this can cause the varnish to become cloudy.
Dip your brush in the varnish and apply it to all the roof panels in the direction of the fur, which should be downward. You may need to apply two coats to achieve the desired effect.
Apply varnish to one panel at a time, and only add a second coat once the first coat is completely dry. If you apply it while the first coat is still wet, the varnish will become cloudy, and you won't be able to fix it.
Now let the fur dry completely. The varnish gives the fur a true thatch appearance.
You can style your thatch however you like. You may choose to leave some overhang at the edges, but I decided to cut mine short. Always trim the edges to your desired length after varnishing the roof and allowing it to dry. If you cut before varnishing, the edges may end up uneven.
I added "thatch weave" made of beige cotton lace ribbon along the roof ridges and where certain panels meet. You can also cut decorative strips from your fur and apply them horizontally over the edges of your roof.
An example of dark brown thatch is shown in the Aster Cottage Dollhouse, pictured below.
Give thatching a try! It's an easy project if you follow the steps provided. A quick online search for “thatched roofs” will yield many images for inspiration and authenticity.
Replacing Mansard Panels
The plywood used in tab-and-slot dollhouse kits is quite tough, especially when it comes to mansard panels. While some newer kits feature composite mansard panels for easier shaping, many still use plywood. I recommend replacing these plywood panels. They are very hard to work with, and no amount of preparation will allow them to curve properly. Even though they are scored to help with bending, it’s not sufficient. Trying to make these rigid panels curve can put unnecessary stress on both you and your dollhouse. Switching from plywood mansard panels to a more user-friendly material will not affect the assembly process or compromise the dollhouse's integrity.
Mansard panels are not structural components; they do not support any part of the dollhouse. All curved mansard roofs have an internal frame that holds the top roof and third floor together, while the exterior curved panels are separate from this structural frame.
The best alternative for your mansard panels is heavy cardstock or poster board. One sheet is usually large enough to cut all the roof panels for most dollhouse models. Poster board comes in various colors; I chose black for the Willowcrest Dollhouse because I later added black stained shingles. Try to find a poster board that matches the color of your planned shingles, but if you can’t, that’s okay — poster board takes paint well. Avoid using foam core, as it won’t curve smoothly and may bend or crease.
Start by tracing all your mansard panels onto the poster board.
Next, cut along the lines you traced.
Third, enjoy the easiest-to-install mansard panels in the dollhouse world. Simply install them like the wood panels, following your dollhouse kit instructions. These panels feature a perfectly curved slope with minimal effort.
Trim any areas that are hard to fit around dormers and other details. You can achieve the perfect fit using just your scissors.
Attach shingles to the panels using hot melt glue, just as you would with wooden panels.
In some dollhouses, like the Lily Dollhouse, the back of the mansard panels serves as the interior walls of the third-floor attic. The process for replacing these panels is the same as described above.
Before installing the mansard panels, apply wallpaper to their inside surfaces. Use a thinner glue instead of standard wallpaper paste. A glue stick or a thin layer of tacky glue works well. Be careful not to oversaturate the poster board panels with moisture to avoid warping or wrinkling the wallpaper.
If you used a white poster board, like I did for the Lily Dollhouse shown above, paint the outside of the poster board to match the color of your shingles so the white doesn't show through.
Finally, use the original wooden mansard panels from the kit as kindling!
