Choosing a back cover for a dollhouse requires careful consideration. While a clear acrylic back cover can provide a professional finish and protect your miniature display, the process is more complex than it might initially seem. The key challenge lies in the unique design of dollhouses. Each model has distinct architectural features and measurements that make installing a standard back cover difficult.
To successfully add a back cover, you must plan ahead and make modifications during the assembly process. Larger or uniquely shaped dollhouses, such as the Beacon Hill or Garfield models, present additional complications. There is no universal solution for back covers, as every dollhouse has its own specific requirements. Careful planning and customization are essential to achieving a polished and functional display.
In these pictures, the back cover of the Beacon Hill Dollhouse is almost invisible and is only noticeable due to the glare from a window.
Choosing A Back Cover
The best option for a back cover that offers strong protection while looking professional is a clear acrylic sheet. However, these sheets can be hard to find, typically available only at hardware stores in the windows and doors section. They come in large sizes and will need to be cut down to fit your dollhouse. Unfortunately, the thinnest sheets available are still too thick to cut with scissors or a craft knife; they require professional cutting with specialized tools. Before purchasing an acrylic sheet, it's wise to call the hardware store to check if they offer cutting services for acrylic. It's best to buy from a store that can cut the sheet for you, unless you have access to another cutting option.
Fitting A Back Cover
Tab-and-slot dollhouses have unique measurements and designs that create angles and curves at their open backs. This means you won't have a perfectly square opening for your acrylic sheet. For example, in the Beacon Hill Dollhouse, the sides of the mansard roof are curved rather than square. Hardware stores typically only provide straight cuts for acrylic sheets, so you won't be able to get angled or curved cuts done there. As a result, the square sheet may extend beyond the corners of the mansard roof, as shown in the accompanying photo. However, since the sheet is clear, this protrusion is not noticeable when viewing the dollhouse from the front.
I installed a custom back edge trim on my Beacon Hill Dollhouse to ensure that the sheet rests on a flat and even surface. While no additional modifications were necessary for this particular dollhouse, others may require more adjustments for a proper fit.
Keep in mind that acrylic sheets can be heavy, even when choosing the thinnest option. It's important to rest the bottom edge on the base of your dollhouse so that its weight is supported properly. These tab-and-slot dollhouses are made of glue-only 1/8" plywood and are not designed to bear significant weight.
For the Beacon Hill Dollhouse, I installed L channels along the top, right side, and bottom of the foundation.
These channels will support the acrylic sheet, allowing it to slide smoothly. I created custom back edge trim, ensuring that all the L channels align properly.
It's crucial to consider the acrylic back cover while assembling the dollhouse. If the back edge trim is not uniformly thick on all sides, the L channels won't align correctly, preventing the acrylic sheet from fitting evenly within all three channels. You can buy miniature L or C channel trim from a miniatures dealer, but I made my own L channels from strip wood purchased at a craft store. I chose basswood for these channels instead of the softer balsa wood I usually use, and I painted them to match the dollhouse's back edge. The L channels don’t need to connect at the corners, and they probably won’t due to the dollhouse's architectural features. They just need to meet evenly on all sides to ensure that the sheet is not warped or stressed when inserted. The side and top channels will secure the acrylic sheet in place.
The bottom L channel is placed along the dollhouse foundation's edge on the display base. The acrylic sheets are heavy, so they should always rest on the base rather than being held by the dollhouse. This channel serves two purposes - aesthetically hiding the sheet's bottom edge and providing a smooth sliding rail for the sheet.
When moving or storing your dollhouse, always remove the acrylic sheet first. To improve sliding, apply a small amount of beeswax, Ivory soap, or clear lip balm along the bottom edge of the sheet. The clear acrylic sheet can be easily slid to the side for interior access. The transparent cover allows perfect viewing while preventing items from falling out, making it ideal for displays around pets or children. It also protects expensive miniature collections from being touched by visitors.
The placement and sliding direction of the acrylic sheet depends on your dollhouse's size and design. Smaller models can have sheets that slide upwards, while larger, heavier models are better suited to sideways sliding to manage weight and structural considerations.
The clear acrylic sheet on this Willowcrest Dollhouse is almost invisible, but you can see it in the window glare in the side photo.
I installed L-shaped channels along the sides and bottom foundation of the Willowcrest Dollhouse. These channels, similar to those in the Beacon Hill Dollhouse, rest on the landscaped base and help distribute the structure's weight. Custom back trim was necessary to ensure the back cover sits flat and evenly. The channels are strategically positioned so they do not connect at the bottom corners, creating a clean, almost invisible edge.
The Willowcrest Dollhouse needed modifications at the cornice trim line under the mansard roof to fit the back cover, as shown in the photo below. The cornice trim was trimmed back about one inch on each side to allow the back cover to fit in place and reach the top, covering the attic room.
Modifying dollhouses for acrylic sheet covers requires careful planning, as each model is unique. Creating channels for the sheets is ideal, providing a finished look and protecting miniatures, despite the extra work involved.
Avoid using Velcro, as it doesn't provide a strong hold for heavy sheets and is aesthetically displeasing. It's also difficult to work with and can cause miniatures to fall when removing the sheet. Fabric covers and clear vinyl plastic are not recommended due to lack of protection, aesthetic issues, and dust accumulation. Poster frame covers, while easily accessible, are often too small for one-inch scale models, easily scratched, and may lack clarity. Clear acetate sheets could be a good alternative, being lightweight and easily cut, but they're difficult to find in appropriate sizes.
For smaller half-scale dollhouses, like the Fairfield Dollhouse, complete display cases might be preferable. These can be custom-made or constructed using poster frame acrylic and wooden sticks for framing. When building your own, choose thinner acrylic that can be cut with scissors for easier handling and lighter weight.
I measured and cut the top cover, which sits on the horizontal frames and is secured with small pieces of clear packing tape on each side. The tape is nearly invisible. This case is light enough to lift easily, allowing access to the dollhouse's interior and landscaping.
This case is designed to keep dust and hands away from the dollhouse, but it is not sturdy enough to protect it from impacts.
Most dollhouses don’t need a large, custom display case like this one. However, the architectural design of the Fairfield Dollhouse makes it difficult to cover just the back openings with dust covers. Since this dollhouse is small, it can get very dusty on the exterior and landscaping, so covering the entire piece is more effective for keeping dust and hands away.
Although creating this case was challenging and time-consuming, it is worthwhile in the long run. My other dollhouses have back dust covers, and they have stayed dust-free and their miniatures safe for years.
This type of display case can also be used to protect specific areas of a dollhouse. For example, my Lily Dollhouse has a rooftop garden that I want to keep dust-free. I made a similar case designed specifically to cover just the rooftop section. The lightweight material is ideal for placing on top of a dollhouse, as it won’t add extra weight.
I stained the frame of the case to match the dollhouse's exterior trim. The case is simply placed on top of the roof and is not glued down permanently. To make it easier to access the inside when redecorating the garden, I designed a lift-up top.
Some dollhouses, like the McKinley Dollhouse, have unique architectural features that make adding channels for a sliding back cover impractical. The roof angles and gingerbread trim, for instance, would require modifications that could alter the dollhouse's intended design.
As an alternative, I created three acrylic panels attached with magnets. The large square panel rests on the first floor base, while the two thin, triangle-shaped panels fit perfectly on the third floor. I added trim around the gabled ceiling of the attic to keep the triangle-shaped panels from falling into the dollhouse.
When selecting magnets for acrylic panels, strong neodymium magnets are recommended for their small size and superior strength. I used wooden end caps for the magnets, as shown in the photo below, to make them easier to handle.
Small Display Cases
For smaller dollhouses, such as half quarter scale or micro scale, using a display case can provide protection. However, these cases are often hard to find and can be quite expensive, depending on their size and shape. A display case is particularly suitable for smaller scales because it is more challenging to add a back cover to these dollhouses.
 |
| Display case |
Display cases can be made from clear Plexiglas, plastic, acrylic, or real glass. They range from simple rectangular shapes to more elaborate shelving units designed to hold multiple items together. Some cases even come with built-in lighting. You can find ready-made options or have a custom case made to suit your needs.
When shopping for a display case, keep an open mind. Essentially, you are looking for a clear box to showcase your items. It doesn’t have to be labeled as a "display case" to be effective. For example, aquariums are available in various sizes and shapes and are often affordable, especially if they are smaller. You can easily use one to cover a half-scale dollhouse completely. For smaller dollhouses, you can use clear acrylic shoe or hand bag storage boxes. I have several quarter-scale dollhouse displays and have used Critter Keepers as display cases.
 |
| Critter Keeper |
Critter Keepers are available at most pet stores in various sizes. While some stores offer larger models, others may not, so it's a good idea to shop around. They are made of clear plastic, lightweight, and generally more affordable than acrylic display cases.
Transforming the Critter Keeper into a display case is easy. Start by measuring your dollhouse to ensure you buy the right size Critter Keeper. Next, remove the lid from the Critter Keeper. Create a base for the dollhouse using foam core, using the Critter Keeper as a template for size. Landscape the base and position the dollhouse on top. Then, attach Velcro dots to the four corners of both the base and the Critter Keeper. Finally, place the Critter Keeper over the dollhouse, aligning the Velcro dots. This results in a simple and affordable display case.
The dollhouse can be viewed from all angles without removing the case, which is particularly useful at this small scale where miniatures can easily be lost. Additionally, these display cases protect both the landscaping and the dollhouse itself.
If front-opening dollhouses have panels, why not consider adding a back panel? All you need is plywood and hinges. However, this option works best if your dollhouse has a completely square back, which is often not the case. Installing a hinged back panel requires careful planning, effort, and power tools. If you are handy, you may be able to manage this project.
Keep in mind that large plywood panels can be heavy, and tab-and-slot dollhouses are not designed to support significant weight. Use plywood of the same thickness as your kit and finish both sides of the panel at the same time to prevent warping. Also, remember that swinging open a large back panel will need extra display space.
