I primed all the walls and ceilings in the living room and then applied the ceiling paper. To do this effectively, I made a template using copy paper and transferred it to the ceiling paper, checking the fit before gluing. To save on wallpaper paste, I used tacky glue for the ceiling paper. This thick paper won’t buckle or warp with the moisture from the glue, so I applied it evenly but sparingly for a strong hold. Next, I applied the wallpaper. The square openings of the bay walls will make it easy to create trim later.
I also started installing the flooring using Greenleaf's Miniature Scale Vinyl Hardwood Flooring. It’s simple to cut with scissors. When applying the flooring, I carefully cut around the tabs and slots for the bay walls, ensuring not to block any installation areas. I worked up to the living room doorway, added trim for one side of the door over the flooring, and dry-fitted the door to continue laying flooring around it. It’s important to butt the flooring up to the door for a flush edge. After that, I removed the door and finished applying the rest of the flooring, cutting around the front bay as I did for the side.
Finishing the Bays Interior
I chose to create trim for the bay edges instead of wrapping wallpaper around them. I framed each opening with strips of wood, ensuring they fit flush against the edges. After sanding, I applied spackle and painted for a smooth finish. The decorative pieces for these openings will be added later, matching nicely with this frame. It’s important to complete this step before installing the bay walls to ensure easy access to all areas.
Finishing the Bays Exterior
The exterior of the bay openings will be mostly hidden but can be seen through the windows, so it’s best not to leave them with raw wood. However, since visibility is limited, there’s no need to overdo the finishes. I recommend painting the sides in the same color as your trim to create an illusion that it wraps around the bay wall edges. Wallpapering isn’t necessary since most of these sides will be covered by bay walls. You can add wallpaper to the top of each bay since this area will be most visible through the windows. A scrap piece of wallpaper works well and can be applied with evenly spread tacky glue to avoid wasting wallpaper paste. You can also apply ceiling paper using tacky glue or simply paint the bay ceilings, as visibility is limited here too. Since I had leftover ceiling paper, I used it for mine. The ceiling paper won't interfere with placing the bay walls, so you can apply it now.
Keep in Mind
I prefer using products from manufacturers when available because they are specifically designed for dollhouse kits. For example, my flooring is easily cut around various wall angles common in tab-and-slot dollhouses. These products are also scaled appropriately for tab-and-slot dollhouses, which tend to be more accurate than cabinet-grade dollhouses. In addition to finishing products, I use doors, windows, and staircases that come with the kit since they fit well and won’t cause installation issues. They can also be easily detailed with inexpensive craft items, adding unique elements to your dollhouse.
Always install door and bay opening trim over your flooring; therefore, complete your flooring around each bay before adding trim. When joining planks of uncut flooring sections, make sure their edges butt together for even joints. Face cut sections towards walls since they will be covered by baseboards. After finishing these steps, you can begin installing the bay walls before siding the dollhouse. However, do not apply any exterior bay trim yet; that should be done after siding is complete.
