I included links to Chrysnbon Furniture Kits and accessories in this post, but the best places to find these items are on eBay or Etsy, as many are discontinued or rare.
Many newcomers to miniatures will soon encounter Chrysnbon Furniture Kits. These kits are made of polystyrene plastic and feature a wood grain texture that makes them look like real wood. You might not realize they are plastic until you examine them closely. Some miniaturists prefer not to use Chrysnbon kits because they have few pieces with working drawers or doors. However, I appreciate them for their detailed and authentic replicas of antique furniture, perfectly scaled at 1". They fit well in tab-and-slot dollhouses and can be finished in various ways to match your decor.
While Chrysnbon does not offer complete furniture sets, they do provide accessories. There are books available that show how to modify existing kits into different furniture styles. In my Beacon Hill Dollhouse, I have a mix of wooden furniture and Chrysnbon kits, which works nicely together.
Assembling Chrysnbon kits can be confusing and challenging at first. Choosing the right adhesive is crucial for success, as polystyrene is difficult to bond. The recommended adhesive is Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, which is the only one that works effectively with these kits unless you have extensive experience with other adhesives. This clear cement dries quickly, similar to super glue, and creates a strong bond by dissolving the polystyrene when the pieces are pressed together. Although it can dissolve polystyrene, it is safe to touch and bonds only to polystyrene. You can typically find this adhesive at hobby stores or online.
When you purchase a Chrysnbon kit, it comes in a box with parts in a bag. Some parts are attached to "trees," while others are loose, and none are labeled. Only the illustrated instructions will help you identify each part. The assembly process takes time, and it's essential to dry fit the parts at every step to ensure they fit correctly before applying cement. Follow the illustrations closely, as they show how each part should be positioned for assembly. The kit is built in sub-assemblies that must be correctly assembled for everything to fit together properly.
Today, I'm assembling a Kitchen Cabinet Kit, but the process is similar for other types of kits. The instructions suggest painting all pieces while they are still on the trees; however, I recommend against this. The included fruitwood stain must be sealed or it will come off. If you stain the parts before assembly, you risk damaging the stain during the process and may end up with a blotchy finish when applying new stain over dried stain. Additionally, cement can get on your stain and be visible later. For these reasons, it's best to wait until after assembly to apply stain, even if some areas are harder to reach. A fine-tipped paintbrush can help with this.
After removing parts from the trees, you'll notice rough spots where they were attached. You can use toenail clippers to trim these areas closely without leaving bumps and then sand them with a fingernail file if needed. Be careful not to cut off any tiny tabs necessary for assembly, especially those that act as hinges for cabinet doors. When using your cement, make sure to close it tightly after each use to prevent clogging the precision tip. If it does clog, you can use a thin metal wire (included with your cement) to clear it. Apply enough cement for a strong hold but try to keep it neat; some visibility of cement in joints is acceptable.
Assemble each sub-assembly first, leaving out details like "glass," door knobs, and pulls until after staining. Follow each step carefully to avoid conflicts during assembly and dry fit everything beforehand. In this cabinet kit, all components function—drawers open and cabinet doors swing—so assembling in order helps ensure you don't permanently bond parts that need to move. Staining last prevents issues with inner areas that shouldn't be stained for smooth operation.
Once the cement has dried, prepare your items for staining by lightly sanding off any visible cement with a fine-grit fingernail file before applying stain. Be careful not to sand off the wood grain texture. Although these kits come with a Cherry Fruitwood Stain Packet, you can easily paint them using acrylic craft paints or other stains if desired. The included stain may not cover the entire item as it used to; you might need extra stain if you want a complete finish all around, including underneath. I managed to color match the fruitwood stain by mixing several acrylic craft paints I had on hand; if you're good at color matching by eye, you might achieve similar results.
Apply the stain lightly and evenly, working on one section at a time. The small details in these furniture kits can be obscured if you use too much stain. If your stain appears blotchy, it’s likely due to the plastic, not the stain itself. The stained effect is achieved by brushing the stain onto the plastic, which creates a grain effect. For a realistic "stained" look, apply the stain as evenly as possible; too much will result in a painted appearance.
After staining, apply a coat of acrylic gloss varnish to protect the finish and create a more realistic wood look. Use the varnish sparingly and in sections, as too much can turn white, especially on non-porous plastics. A little varnish goes a long way, and you don’t need to wet your brush excessively to achieve a shine.
All pieces come unfinished, so you will need to paint the knobs and handles as well. I painted mine gold, as shown in the picture. It’s best to paint them after installation since they are too small to paint beforehand. If you paint them while still attached to the "tree," the finish may get damaged when you cement them in place. Remember that the cement melts polystyrene for bonding.
I applied the "glass" panels last. Everything in the kit is precision cut for proper fitting, so make sure you understand how your doors close—typically, one door overlaps the other, with slight differences in their outer edges. If you apply stain and varnish sparingly and avoid the "hinged" area, it won’t affect door movement.
Use metallic gold or silver paint to enhance details in these kits. For realism, paint your stoves with matte black or charcoal acrylic craft paint. Adding your own details with acrylic paints can elevate your Chrysnbon furniture and accessory sets. Many accessory kits come in solid white without any finish but have molded details that can be highlighted with paint. A fine-tip brush is perfect for bringing out these details. While some Chrysnbon accessories are available already painted and finished, they can cost up to three times more than the original unfinished kits. It’s more cost-effective to finish them yourself. Some kits include decals that apply like temporary tattoos but often don’t stay put and may peel or flake off over time. Therefore, it’s better to use craft paints to create your own decals on the items.
If your stove's bottom grate decals begin to lift, add a small amount of tacky glue underneath and gently press them back into place. Be careful when lifting the decal as they are delicate and can tear easily. The tacky glue dries clear and will help keep the decal secure.
Look online for pictures of real Victorian items to use as a painting guide when finishing your kits. You don’t have to complete them all at once; I displayed some items unfinished for years before I had time to work on them. These kits don't need to be stained; they can be painted with acrylics for a completely different look and style.
Chrysnbon kits are durable but are best suited for display dollhouses rather than play ones. Some users have reported color changes over time; however, I’ve had mine for years without any change. The timeframe for wear and tear is unclear, but like other miniatures, keep your displays away from sunlight and humidity to prolong their lifespan.
