Since I have already blogged this dollhouse before, I will focus on building tips and the changes I made to the finishes, rather than the step-by-step assembly process.
The dollhouse comes with instructions for modifying the interior to create a more open floor plan, which involves omitting the second-floor staircase. However, I won’t be making this change because I already have furniture that fits the original layout from my first Willowcrest Dollhouse. I also appreciate the intricate design of the original floor plan. While it may limit interior space, it adds character to the dollhouse. Remember, tab-and-slot dollhouses are not just for displaying furniture and miniatures; the dollhouse itself is a display.
Although this dollhouse can be challenging to assemble, it consists of multiple subassemblies that you can work on separately. This allows you to prepare them in advance, especially since they require significant effort. You don’t need to assemble these subassemblies in any specific order since they won’t be installed in the dollhouse immediately. You can choose any subassembly to start with, set it aside, and install it later when instructed.
First Floor Staircase
The first subassembly I chose is the first-floor staircase. This detailed and intricate winding staircase is typical of Greenleaf Dollhouse models of this size and requires a lot of work. I decided to create a two-tone staircase with white moldings, rails, and risers, paired with stained steps and banisters. To achieve this look, I needed to finish the risers and steps before assembly.
One advantage of this staircase is that you can complete it entirely before installation. This is unlike The Beacon Hill Dollhouse, where railings and trim must be installed after placing the staircase, making it difficult to hide gaps and do touch-ups. However, this staircase does have its downsides, particularly noticeable gaps. The most prominent gaps occur in the sideways risers—those with tabs that fit into step slots. While these risers create a beautiful winding feature, they also leave unsightly gaps. To address this issue, I used a runner on my first Willowcrest Dollhouse staircase to conceal some of these gaps. If you prefer not to use a runner, you’ll need to find a way to hide them since spackle won’t effectively cover them due to their size.
A good solution is to laminate a piece of siding over the gaps. To do this, cut a piece of siding to size and glue it over the problematic riser using hot melt glue (avoid tacky glue as it may warp). Ensure that the siding piece is large enough to cover any side gaps in the risers. Siding works well because it can be stained if desired. Since I painted my risers white, I could have also used thin cardboard in the same way. I applied this method to all sideways risers due to their gaps. You can also use this technique to cover gaps between the floor and the first riser or any other issues with the staircase. Now my staircase has no visible gaps, but I did use spackle for very small gaps along the joints of the staircase trim. If you're using wood stain for your staircase, remember that spackle does not stain. Fortunately, I'm using my own faux stain that covers spackle well.
I had to make my own back for the staircase since I misplaced the one from the kit. This highlights why new builders should wait to punch out parts until instructed; even with care, it's easy to misplace something. If you find yourself missing parts, you can easily make replacements from balsa wood.
The way this staircase fits into the dollhouse might make you question why you spent so much time detailing it since much will be hidden from view. However, just because some areas aren’t directly visible doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be finished properly; many areas can be seen through windows and open doors. I wouldn’t recommend investing in an expensive runner or spending too much time stenciling it, but do ensure it’s finished well. Leaving parts unfinished may lead to regret later when access for fixes is limited after installation; areas against a wall don’t require finishing.
I’m also brainstorming ways for this beautiful winding staircase to be more visible once installed. For now, this time-consuming subassembly is complete!
