Photobucket has changed their terms of service and is no longer allowing 3rd party hosting. For this reason, my photos are no longer available for viewing. I am keeping the blog posts up so at least the text can be read.

I am currently in the process of migrating this blog onto Facebook. This will allow for the photos to be viewed again.

This process will take some time. I am sorry for the inconvenience.


Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, April 24

The Lily Dollhouse Revisited Week 13


**Unfortunately Photobucket lost all of the original photos I had taken for this post, so I can only show the finished photos. I am trying to retrieve the lost photos and if I am able to do so, I will repost them.**

This room has an odd shape because the hallway is attached to it. Though it has no inaccessible areas, the room is difficult to finish because of the small hallway space and L shape.

Before I can begin this room, I have to add the bathroom faux door partition. This is a custom partition that does not come in the dollhouse kit. The bathroom in this dollhouse does not have a door. I decided to create a faux door, in order to make this room more private and therefore more realistic as a bathroom. I used balsa wood, because of how easily it can be cut. You must use a balsa wood that is the same thickness as the dollhouse kit, 1/8" thick.

Once the partition extension is cut out of your balsa wood, you can use the second floor staircase room's walkway as a template for creating a door. Just place the cut balsa wood against the walkway and trace with a pencil to transfer the walkway opening onto your balsa wood partition extension. Balsa wood is very soft, so make your tracing very light. You do not want to cause too much of an indentation into the wood.

Now the faux door is identical in size to the walkway and it creates a symmetrical hallway. It will look like this door came with the dollhouse.

After this is done, you can glue the partition in place. It does not have to be perfect at the ceiling area because any small gaps will be hidden with wallpaper and ceiling trim. It does have to be flush at the bottom because that's where the door meets the floor and there will be no trim in this section. You do not want a wide gap between your door and floor.

This faux door will have to be finished installed because the partition extension is partly wallpapered. This is why balsa wood would be the best choice for this partition because you will be able to insert doorknobs while the door is in place.

After the partition is dry, it's time to wallpaper this room. It is best to wallpaper the window wall first and then the long wall that has the staircase walkway. Finally, you want to wallpaper the L shaped wall that is partly in the bedroom and partly in the hallway. You want to use one sheet of wallpaper and fold it over the wall corner. Dry fit it multiple times and make a fold where the corner is so that the wallpaper goes over it smoothly once the paste is on. You then need to take a scrap of wallpaper and place it over the faux door, joining it to the already applied wallpaper piece. The seam will be facing towards the bedroom and so therefore, harder to see.

The ceiling paper is applied in the same way as the other rooms. Make a template and then transfer it to your ceiling paper for cutting out. It will be a little tricky since the ceiling is L shaped, so be careful when applying it and make sure that you do not get glue on your wallpapered walls.

Now I can finish laying down the rest of the flooring.

After the flooring is in, I can begin all of the trim work. I stained the faux door first. I then framed it with trim. It has trim on the sides and the top. Now it's really beginning to look like a door.

I also applied the staircase room's walkway trim. Once this trim is applied, you will see raw wood on the interior edge of the walkway, sandwiched between the two trim pieces. You will want to paint this edge with the same color stain your using, in order to hide it. This is where making your own stain comes in handy. I just used the same brown, acrylic paint that I made the stain with in order to paint this edge. It might be more difficult to hide it with regular wood stain. If it does become difficult, you will have to buy trim in the width of the edge and trim the sides and top to hide it. Though it seems like a good idea, you will want to avoid having to do this because when the walkway has an arch at the top, you will have trouble trimming it.

I then applied trim to the floors and the ceilings.

There is no easy way to take a picture of it because it is mostly out of view but I trimmed the opening that looks into the bedroom, on the inside edge. You can see where from the binder clips that are clamping the trim in place. To be able to trim this opening, you will need a hand held mirror in order to see where to apply the trim.

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