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Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, August 3

The Willowcrest Dollhouse Revisited Week 30

Back Cover
A dollhouse is truly not complete until you find a way to fit a back cover on it. I explained back covers in details here.

I implemented the same technique for the back cover of this dollhouse, as I did for the Beacon Hill. It has worked very well so far so I knew I had to use it again.

Just like the Beacon Hill, this dollhouse has a relatively square and flat back but it still has to be modified to fit the cover. For this particular dollhouse model, the mansard cornice trim has to be trimmed back. I circled in red the area of the cornice I am referring to. If they are not trimmed back, about an inch on each side, the acrylic panel will not be able to fit between them. There just isn't enough leeway for the width of the panel. This is the only area that needs modification on this dollhouse model. Everything else can be left as it is.

For this dollhouse model, the acrylic panel will slide on rails upwards, rather than to the side. This is because if you want the panel to slide sideways, you would have to completely remove one of the mansard roof cornice, instead of just cutting them back an inch. I don't recommend you do this. The cornice is an essential component of the dollhouse, that holds the roof in place. It almost behaves like a locking mechanism and removing the back part of one side, can compromise the structure. I wouldn't risk it. It's really not necessary because unlike the Beacon Hill, the Willowcrest is a much smaller and narrower dollhouse. The acrylic pane is easily lifted upwards and removed, without strain.

I made my own L shaped rails using strip wood from the craft store. Try to get basswood, rather than balsa wood because it is much stronger. I assembled my wood strips into the L shapes first and then I custom cut them to fit around the back walls of the dollhouse. I finished them before installation. I then glued them along the back edges of the side walls and along the bottom foundation.

Notice that I, once again, glued the bottom rail on the bottom edge of the foundation so that the acrylic panel rests on the dollhouse's display table along this rail. This is important because you do not want the dollhouse carrying the weight of the acrylic panel. The bottom rail is just to hide the cut edge of the acrylic and it also acts as a guide to that the acrylic rests flush against the dollhouse's back. It is not intended to carry weight on its own.

As you can see, I trimmed all of the back edges of the floors. The walls of this dollhouse face sideways so they do not have to be trimmed. Just sand them very well, until smooth and paint them to match the exterior of the dollhouse. I only painted the back wall sides. I did not use siding on them. I did this for two reasons. First, I did not want anything underneath the rail system for the acrylic pane and the area is so small that it was going to make the siding look very bulky. I decided to just paint and frame the two back walls, to match the rest of the dollhouse. I did the same for the back of the mansard roofs.





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