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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, January 5

Limited Edition 2015 Creatin' Contest Kit Week 4

Now I am moving on to the dollhouse roof.

I am taking this assembly slowly but everything I have done so far, can be done in about two to three days and if you are a true early bird, you can even push it to just one day. The wait time for your glue to dry is basically the only time consumption this assembly will have.

The roof support structure can be extremely confusing so I recommend you dry fit the entire assembly to make sure you got it right before you glue it together.

If you want the dollhouse to be dis-assembled for finishing, as the instructions suggest, then follow the instructions on where and when to apply glue. If you are like me and are completely capable of finishing this dollhouse after its assembled, glue permanently as you go along. This dollhouse has no inaccessible areas. It's basically one large room so why you would need to dis-assemble it in order to finish it, is beyond my knowledge but there could be someone out there that would prefer that, so choose the option that best applies to your needs.

Rafters
The rafters are the curved beams that go from the front to the back of the dollhouse. The tips are exposed through the front beam.

Just install them in place in the order the instructions recommend.

Roof Supports
I struggled a little trying to figure this part out. The roof supports are the light wood blocks that came with the kit and they fit between the rafters.

Notice the ones that are beveled, they go against the back beam so that roof has leeway to curve. Make sure you position them correctly.









Support Screws
I knew there have to be a use for hardware somewhere in this kit and we have come to that step now.

Insert the screws provided in the kit into the pre-drilled holes on the back and front sides of the side walls. They go into the front and back roof supports. The holes are some what indented so that the screws sit flush against the walls once in.

Now here comes the variable. The instructions do not say anything about not being able to use a power drill for this. I recommend that if you do, be very careful. You can easily damage the kit if you become to overzealous with a drill. I believe that if you do use a power drill you can take advantage of the pre-drilled holes indentations and get your screw flush to the wall.

If you screw them in by hand though, like I did, you will not be able to get the screws completely into that indentation. There will just come a moment where you can not screw them in any further. I recommend you don't push it. Remember, this is sort of like office furniture material and if you screw in too hard, you might strip the hole your making in the roof support and loose the screws grip. There is no other area to use the screw in so if you mess it up, it's toast.

That's why I applied glue to the area of the roof support that goes against the wall and that pre-drilled hole. That way the glue will help hold the screw in place once dry. So, just get your screw in as flush to the wall as possible and then let it be.



Rafter Trim
I am deviating from the instructions and applying the rafter trim at this point. I don't see why I can't since I am already working on the other rafters.

The rafter trim is another confusing part. Its a long thin, curves strip that goes against the top, exterior part of the side walls. It covers the screws.

It is very thin so the kit comes with two small, thick MDF blocks that should be glued to the front of these thin pieces. This will make it look like there are two, thick rafters at the sides of the dollhouse to match the three middle ones.

I recommend you glue those blocks to the front of your rafter trim before you install them. This will ensure that the blocks are very flush against this trim and look like one single piece, with no gaps. I used a binder clamp to hold the blocks tightly against the trim. You just have to make sure that you glue them on to the correct sides of your trim. Dry fit them first to mark where the blocks have to go and notice my photo.



Installing The Rafter Trim
When your pieces are dry, they can be installed on the dollhouse. This will be easy to do because your blocks are already in place.

The screws might lift the trim a little but don't worry about that. Just use binder clamps to hold it tightly, especially in the area between the screws.

Make sure the trim is flush with the top edge.




5 comments:

petitemoonbeams.blogspot.com said...

I love your blog. Thx.

Pat

Anonymous said...

Gina, I never recieved any instructions or a parts list. Your pictures are very good but I am starting to get a little confused. Can you help me out? Thanks, Debi

Gina said...

Debi, send me a message through my Contact link, with your email address. I will send you the instructions and parts list. That way it will get to you faster than having HBS send them to you.

Renna Fox said...

im at the part with the small bricks to add to the side of the dollhouse. is the thin flat curved thing supposed to line up at the back? because mine doesnt.

Gina said...

Renna,

If by the "thin flat curved" piece you are describing, you mean the rafter trim that goes over the nail heads, then yes. It lines up at the back. Make sure you aren't putting it in backwards. It should fit right over the side curved beam, hiding the nail heads and it should be flush in the back and front.

 

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