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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Dollhouse Assembly Blogs

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Sunday, January 4

Limited Edition 2015 Creatin' Contest Kit Week 3

This week, the dollhouse walls started going up. Now that the foundation is fully dry, it is holding up very well with just glue. It's quite strong. I don't believe it will have any issues.

Assembling The Side Walls
I deviated from the instructions on this part because if you try to install the side walls to the foundation, without the front and back beams, the whole structure is going to fall apart. There was nothing I could think of that would temporarily hold these heavy MDF walls up while the glue dried. There is no area in the structure, at this point, to clamp them to and you have to make sure they are straight.

Unlike, tab and slot dollhouses, you can not straighten MDF once it is glued on. There will be no leeway with these thick panels so you have to make sure they are installed straight and dry straight from the beginning.

For this reason, I pre-assembled the side walls away from the foundation and I installed the front and back, top beams in order to give the side walls support. That way when I am ready to install the walls to the foundation, they will not topple over. The walls will also be straight and will not lean over at the top. The heavier, thicker, MDF parts also allow for the walls to sit up on their edges when you are trying to install the beams so you won't experience much topple over.

Doing this is kind of tricky though. The structure is extremely wobbly and easily pulled apart. You can only sit it with the beams facing up or facing down. Do not attempt to rest it on one of the walls. The beams are not strong enough to hold the walls together that way.


Just notice how I placed the structure upside down so I can clamp it with weights until dry. I assembled it right side up.


The notches of your beams must be positioned correctly or you will not be able to install the roof or the sliding door. Just notice how mines are in the photos. I tried to take close ups. Also the large screw holes on the walls, face outwards.




The good thing here is that the parts go together, flush and perfectly. They are precision cut to fit like puzzle pieces. This helps hold the parts together because they fit so well and the structure is squaring itself out. Cabinet grade dollhouses have this advantage but laser cut tab and slot dollhouses, do also.

I have had no issues with the assembly process so far but it can be tricky. It can become especially confusing trying to identify parts. None of them are labeled so you have to try and guess what the instructions are referring to. You can use the Parts List to try and match the quantities of each part to it. You can sort of guess what the parts are that way. I can't tell you how many times I thought I had messed up.

Installing The Side Walls
Now that I have a completely dry, side wall structure, I can easily place it on top of my foundation and the walls will not topple over.


I applied glue to the foundation side "sills" and then placed the fully assembled, side wall structure, right on top. Notice how the porch floor is not installed yet and the foundation is still visible at the front of the dollhouse.


The structure should be flush with the back foundation. Run a line of glue along the joint between the foundation and walls, in the interior.

Use weights to clamp the sides until dry.



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