Tiny things are made of awesome!


Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

View or print the More Minis Dollhouses Project Planner PDF to help you begin your next dollhouse project!


If you find the information on this blog helpful, please consider making a donation using the secure Paypal button below. Thank you!

Dollhouse Assembly Blogs

Search This Blog

Featured Post

Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, October 15

My Second Half Scale Fairfield Dollhouse Week 3

Walls & Floors

I chose scrapbook paper in mostly neutral colors for the wallpaper of this dollhouse.

This dollhouse is a labrynth on the interior so you have to be extremely careful how you proceed with the assembly. You have to constantly keep your mind one step ahead of what your doing in order to determine whether you will have access to the area after assembly or not. If not, you have to finish as you go. I recommened looking at detailed interior pictures of this dollhouse here, so you have a better understanding of what has to be finished during assembly and when. Dry fit your parts before you commit to glue.

Something that you have to keep in mind when working on tab and slot dollhouses is that the instructions suggest for you to not use glue in certain areas, during the assembly, in order to preserve flexibility and make it easier to continue adding parts to your assembly. Well, these instructions do not take into consideration finishes. You have to finish your dollhouse's interior in order to make it look nice so not gluing certain areas until later, is just not possible in certain instances. Especially when you have to finish an area that will be inaccessible later on.

I recommend you always keep your structure straight, flush and level. Get all tabs into their slots, even if you have to modify a part in order to do so because if your structure is straight and level, that in itself, will make up for the lack of flexibility in allowing other parts to fit later.


The Staircase Sub-assembly fits perfectly in place because I assembled the staircase dry fitted in place. Given that, you will have some minor gaps around the walls which will be easily hidden with wallpaper.


The most inaccessible area of this dollhouse is the foyer. You create the enclosed foyer once the tower walls are up so I recommend wallpapering your foyer and finishing your staircase in it's entirety beforehand.

Second Floor

This Second Floor goes in as two halves and the most difficult half is the one that goes over the Staircase Sub-assembly. You will have minor gaps around the areas where the two floor halves meet but they will be easily hidden once the interior doors are in place and baseboards are applied. Just make sure everything sits level, square and flush.

I do not recommend for you to finish the second floor before installation. It will just swell with moisture and make it all the more difficult to install. This floor can easily be finished after installation, both on the floor and ceiling sides.

Tower Walls

The Tower Walls have to be slid into the slot in the porch roof. This has to be done with the Tower Walls pre-assembled. You can not slide in one tower wall and then the other. Dry fit the walls bottom edges into the slot, as you glue them together, to make sure they sit square. Clamp and let dry.

Sand the slot the tower walls have to go into very well. It's wide but it doesn't hurt to make it wider and remove any wood that can snag as you try to slide the walls down. I also suggest you cut off a little of the pointy middle in the slot so it doesn't snag your wallpaper at the walls joint.

When your Tower Walls are dry, dry fit them again on the slot to make sure the fit is right. Then you have to measure out where the foyer will be on the walls. Prime and wallpaper before sliding the Tower Walls in place. You will not be able to access this area later on, even though you have the front door opening and the living room opening. These openings are way too narrow for you to wallpaper the foyer correctly.

I suggest you use tacky glue for your wallpaper in this area because it will dry flatter and shrink tighter than wallpaper mucilage and you really need this for your Tower Walls to be as flat and smooth as possible so that you can slide them into the slot without snagging. A snag can rip your wallpaper. Use the edge of a window trim to make sure you press your wallpaper firmly into the Tower Wall joint. This area where the two walls meet can easily rip while you slide the walls down the slot if the wallpaper is not tightly creased into it.

After the wallpaper is dry, position your Tower Walls in the slot and gently, but firmly and with a lot of patience, tap it down with a mallet. It will not go down with a push of your hand. You have to tap with a mallet, very gently, and allow it to slide down slowly, inch by inch. Be careful to notice your wallpaper and make sure it hasn't snagged anywhere and is ripping. Position the porch roof in the front, by lifting it every once in a while, so it doesn't interfere in the process of the walls sliding down. Make sure tabs are not hindering the process with the surrounding walls. Move things around gently as you continue tapping. Once the walls reach the bottom, position the end tabs into the porch floor slots and continue tapping with the mallet until they are in place.

Make sure your Tower Walls are even at the top.

You will notice that even though your walls are even at the top and all the tabs are correctly in their place, the oval windows do not seem to sit side by side to each other. One window is sitting slightly higher than the other. Well, this was not a mistake on your part or how the walls were cut but rather in how the oval windows were cut. One of the windows was cut slightly higher than the other on the die machine for this model. This little imperfection is not very noticeable. Do not attempt to try and fix this by cutting one of the walls shorter so the windows sit at the same height because it will throw off your second floor square windows and then they won't sit at the same height. It's less noticeable for the oval windows to not sit at the exact same height than for the square windows not to.

The oval window that sits higher is the faulty one. If you have wood cutting tools, you can fix the oval opening by cutting it further down, until even with the one next to it and then spackling the top even.

Hallway/Bathroom Wall

Even though the instructions do not mention for you to do it now, I went ahead and installed the Hallway/Bathroom Wall before the Attic Floor. It will allow me to wallpaper the hallway assembled. There is really no reason to leave this wall for later, as it will not hinder the installation for the Attic Floor.


Eliana said...

Great project. It's getting beautiful. ;)

Anonymous said...

I forgot the fireplace panel treatment on bottom. I have been building since aug 2012. I broke my dollhouse on feb. 2013. I am re glue and re wallpaper. i am changing fireplace to adobe texture. I change my fairfield house in to Stucco and tile roofing. I made one of bedroom a master bath. I had to cut window out. There no window in room 2, second floor. Seeing your building process. I see where I miss an area or part. Thanks!


Search Archive

Search Labels

Copyright and Disclaimer

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

  © More Minis @ Blogspot Copyright 2007 - 2017 All Rights Reserved

Back to TOP