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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, October 1

My Second Half Scale Fairfield Dollhouse Week 1

Click on Newer Posts at the bottom of each page so you can see each day of the construction.

This time I am returning to a fan favorite dollhouse, the Fairfield Dollhouse. It is personally one of my most favorite Greenleaf Dollhouse models. What's there not to love on this little beauty? It has a tiny tower and hidden room, winding staircase, bookcases and fireplace all in a tiny scale that can sit on your table top. It is also an L-shaped dollhouse, mimicking the elaborate and unique style of the Pierce and Garfield Dollhouses but in a much smaller version.

Some years ago, I assembled a Fairfield Dollhouse for myself but when a visitor came to my home, they fell in love with it and wanted to buy it. I went ahead and accepted the offer because it gave me the perfect excuse to build myself another one.

Since I already assembled this dollhouse before, I am not going to go through every single assembly step all over again. Instead, I will be focusing on reviewing the most difficult areas of this dollhouse.

I am going to be using the same color scheme as I used before since I liked it a lot.

The Foundation/First Floor

This dollhouse is very small and has many inaccessible areas once assembled. I recommend you finish your flooring before your walls go up. Because of this I suggest staining or paper flooring as the ideal floor finishing choices for this model. If you want to add floor coverings that add extra thickness to your floors, you will have to plan very carefully on how you can install it, room by room, as the walls go up.

The Staircase Sub-Assembly

This dollhouse has an extremely difficult Staircase Assembly, even though this is not a winding staircase but rather a straight and simple one. The difficulty comes in the way the staircase is assembled within the surrounding walls.

This staircase is located right in the center of the dollhouse and is completely hidden from view once the dollhouse is complete. I recommend that you do not apply any fancy or elaborate finishes on your staircase because you will not be able to enjoy them after the dollhouse is finished. I do suggest you finish your staircase with stain or paint because you will be able to see it partially through the dollhouse windows and when looking down from the second floor into the stairwell. Just because an area of a dollhouse is hidden from view does not mean it should not be finished. You just don't have to apply special finishes to it because you can use them elsewhere where they can be viewed.

The best way to assemble your staircase is to follow the instructions but instead of assembling it away from the dollhouse, you want to assemble it dry fitted on your dollhouse floor. The reason for this is because there are a lot of tabs on the bottom of this staircase and you want to make sure that they all fit into your First Floor or you will have a very hard time inserting this assembly once the glue dries. The surrounding walls will also not fit properly if the tabs on the Staircase Assembly do not go into the First Floor slots completely. You want to make sure your staircase is also straight and that no surrounding floor slots are being covered by it because that's where the surrounding walls fit into. Laying this staircase on it's side and trying to assemble it that way, as the instructions suggest, will not allow for you to foresee potential tab and slot problems.

Notice that there is a section of Staircase Wall that has to be finished before the staircase Stringer is installed. This part of the Staircase Wall will be visible through the living room if you look up into the stairwell and foyer.

One good thing is that the slots on this dollhouse floor are very wide and so they give you plenty of leeway to position your parts just right.

There is a potential problem with the Staircase Back Wall though. The Stringer does not give enough leeway for the Back Wall to fit correctly and allow the Top Back Wall to be positioned right. This could be a mistake in the measurement of the dollhouse or just in the way the instructions describe it's position. Whatever the case may be, you MUST be sure that the Stringer is flush with the staircase top or the Second Floor will not sit flush on top. The top thread of this staircase is on the Second Floor itself. Nothing can jut out above the staircase wall top or the Second Floor will not fit.

Because of this, I had to notch the Staircase Back Wall so it fits deep enough into the staircase that it does not lift the Stringer out of place and so that the Top Back Wall fits flush and in a correct position. I believe that this is the problem I had when I first assembled this dollhouse.

Hopefully this time around, these notches on the Staircase Back Wall, will resolve it. At least it's a good way to be safe rather than sorry, later on.





















3 comments:

Anonymous said...

this helped me alot with my stairs although i didnt use the risers becasue i then would have gaps in the stairs, this is my first doll house and the stairs and chimney is the hard part for me right now this help me a lot thank you.:P

Greatgrandma said...

This is so great. Your pictures are terrific. I have this kit, unopened but now I will try. Thanks.

Tammy Jones said...

I'm wondering of you finished your dollhouse.

 

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