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Photobucket has changed their terms of service and is no longer allowing 3rd party hosting. For this reason, my photos are no longer available for viewing. I am keeping the blog posts up so at least the text can be read.

I am currently in the process of migrating this blog onto Facebook. This will allow for the photos to be viewed again.

This process will take some time. I am sorry for the inconvenience.

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This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Tuesday, October 25

The Harrison Dollhouse Day 22

Today I hinged the door of the staircase closet. The hinges I bought seem to work with this door. This door does not have any laminated layers of wood. It is plain and thin so I was not expecting any hassles with the miniature hinges.

Hinging die-cut doors is very difficult when they are ornate because the ornamentation is made by laminating wood together which makes the door very thick and very heavy. The bigger the hinges, the better is those cases.

The secret to hinging success is to sand the door as much as possible so that it fits semi-loosely into it's casing. This will ensure that it does not snag when it moves which can put too much stress on your tiny hinges and eventually pull them out. The doors "casing" will usually have to be it's trim. You can try and hinge the door to the dollhouse wall and then apply trim over it but it will impede with the movement of the door. It will also be quite difficult to do since the dollhouse wall is vertical and you really need to hinge with all the pieces laying flat in front of you.

Unfortunaly, the only way you can hinge die cut doors will usually cause for the hinges to be visible. I personally like the way the tiny hinges look but you can put them on the other side of the door so they are not visible or if your door is thick enough, you might be able to put them like they would go on a real life door. It is up to you where you place them but how you place them must always be the same.

You have to mark where your hinge will go and make starter holes with a nail. It only takes a little tiny hole. Do not open the hole too large or your hinge will fit loosely and come out. The tiniest of starter holes is all that's needed. Then use glue on your hinge and pins and insert them. You will need to tap them in with a nail set and hammer. Do one side at a time. Do not rush. It is best to let the pins dry over night before you begin the other side so you do not put any pressure on them.

Remember hinging die cut doors is not always something that can end in success. Sometimes the wood is very brittle and will delaminate when you try to make the starter hole or it will crumble right under your hinge. Sometimes the wood is so dense that it will not allow for your hinge pins to enter, bending them constantly. Sometimes the opening of the door itself can be a hinderance or make it impossible to make the door work. It all really depends on the wood of the dollhouse kit you get, which is always different. You can always purchase pre-hung doors but keep in mind that those type of doors are usually thicker than 1/8" and are larger than the usual opening of a die cut dollhouse. You might also be unusable if the door opening has an unusual shape to it.



1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I just wanted to thank you for the awesome blog, and for updating us on the picture problem.

This blog helps me so much every day while building my Harrison dollhouse. You provide incredibly useful pictures and angles and examples of what is going on in each step. Your blog is very helpful, and not just to boast, like some.

And you have a wonderful talent! I will be using your guides as a reference for every dollhouse I build in the future.

 

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