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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Friday, February 5

The Tennyson Dollhouse Day 4

I went ahead and assembled the doors today. This dollhouse has a double entry door and a side door. All of them are made from laminated pieces. I decided to go ahead and do them now so they are nice and dry when I get ready to install them.

It takes some pressure to insert doors into their openings on dye cut dollhouses so you want to make sure your doors have dried, at least overnight, before attempting to install them or they will pull apart under the pressure. You also need to sand them down as much as you can, until they fit.

Binder clips work great for dollhouse building.

The staircase assembly for this dollhouse is quite straight forward. It's just a simple straight staircase. The only difference is that this dollhouse allows you to either position the staircase facing towards the back of the dollhouse or towards the front wall. Since I plan on putting a nice matching runner to the carpet on it, I'm going to place it facing towards the back of the dollhouse so it's visible.

Dry fit the staircase sides under the stairwell of the dollhouse to make sure you don’t assemble your staircase the wrong way. You have to be certain of the way it goes before you begin assembly. The best way to assemble a staircase is to keep it standing upright. The way I do that is by clamping it at the bottom where the first riser goes and then using masking tape to tape down the clamps to the table. This keeps the staircase standing up, as it would look when installed in the dollhouse. Using clamps at the first riser is essential to keeping the structure sturdy as you move your way up with the steps and risers.

If you plan on painting your risers and staining your steps, you have to do it before you begin installation. I'm planning on staining the entire staircase and then adding the matching runner to the carpet.

These steps have a little overhanging lip on the left side. Make sure that their right side is flush with the staircase sides or the staircase will not lay flat against the wall. While the staircase dried, I wallpapered the last room.

Notice that I placed the template I made to cut out the fabric for the carpet, over the carpet while I work in this room. This is to protect it from paint and glue. Remember, there is still a lot of work to be done on this dollhouse so you don’t want to ruin your carpet with stains before the assembly is finished.







2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I bought this dollhouse at a stoop sale (brownstone brooklyn) for $5 thinking "sure, I can do this". So very thankful for your blog because I would never have been able to even begin to sort it out. It was an open box but complete..I thought...until I realized there were no directions. I was able to get the instruction sheet from Greenleaf (although my Tennyson is made by Artply c. 1980).

I just completed the bay front as detailed in this step. Clamped with masking tape and using wood glue I was able to get a nice snug fit on the first and third panels where the bay meets the walls but between the panels there is the gap created by the right angles of the panels themselves. What is your suggestion to create an edge there? should I use wood filler?

Thanks again for such a complete and informative blog. My daughter is very excited seeing this come together.

Gina said...

The best way to hide gaps between bay walls and also re-enforce them is to use wooden skewers. Just cut the skewers to length and glue them between the wall gaps.

If you wish to not use the skewers you can wallpaper the interior of the bays first and then use light weight spackling compound on the exterior to fill in the gaps. The wallpaper on the interior will hold the spackle in place and prevent it from falling out. Once the gaps are filled, you can sand them smooth and paint them. You must allow for the spackle to dry completely before sanding it and always use a dust mask.

Happy building!

 

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