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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Wednesday, May 13

The Gloucester Dollhouse Day 6

I did the side front “brick” like trim. This will help me know where the front fascia goes since it has to go on top of these two side pieces. I put the front fascia on top of the two side pieces.

The thin fascia goes on the top interior side of the thick fascia. I guess this is what let's you know how high or low the fascia will go. Make sure you leave a small gap on the back edges of the side fascias so the back fascias trim can fit flush to them. Basically the thin fascia goes on top of the roof edge, against the wide fascia.

Now the front wall fascia is more complicated. The wider piece goes flush with the top interior edge of the fascia that’s already on there and the thin one goes over that. There’s a gap so that the roof edge can fit when you close the panel.

I decided to use stencils and spackle in order to create a raised design on the wood of the dollhouse.

Place your stencil where you want to put it on the dollhouse and use masking tape to hold the corners down. It doesn’t have to completely flat to the surface of the dollhouse. Unlike paint, it is more difficult for spackle to go under the stencil and smear. You just don’t want your stencil to move out of position as you apply spackle over it with a putty knife and smooth it down.

The thicker you leave the spackle over the stencil, the more raised the design. Pack down the spackle with your putty knife so it doesn’t lift off when you remove the stencil.

Now lift the stencil and you're left with a raised stencil design made of spackle. I looks like a carved wood applique.

You will need to wash your stencil design before you reuse it on another part of the wall panel because the spackle clogs the stencil and you won't get a real sharp image if you use it twice in a row without washing it. I suggest you keep a bowl of water nearby for easy rinsing of the stencil before each use.

You can scrape any excess spackle right off the surrounding area of the image. If you make a mistake, scrape off the image and do it over. Spackle is very forgiving and while wet, it scrapes completely off in one swipe. You can even add a little more detail to your designs by using a toothpick or any other very fine tip and making swirls or lines on your image. This would look great if your stencil has larger designs. Just wait for the spackle to be a little firm and then gently freehand some detail to your image.

You then have to touch up the paint around the image and you can also touch up the image itself. I used white paint to touch up mines after the spackle dried a little. Spackle dries very quickly so you can lightly paint it a few hours after its applied. It won't be cured until 24 hours though, so it's still soft on the inside and will flatten if you press it hard. Once thoroughly dry though, it becomes extremely hard.

I found two cameo buttons and they were a perfect size to add a little extra something to the design. I painted them the same color as the dollhouse. It worked though because it looks like they were originally this color. I then took tacky glue and glued the cameo in the center design. The spackle was still wet in the middle so I was able to smooch the cameo down on it for extra hold.








1 comment:

Jean Day said...

Thanks for sharing, really coming along nicely.

Mini Hugs, Jean

 

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