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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Wednesday, March 25

The Garfield Dollhouse Day 25

Today I touched up the roof since it was completely dry. I made my templates to they all sit tight and flush at the edges with each other and that eliminated any gaps but there can still be little broken shingles here and there or tiny little gaps where the edges aren’t completely flush. Use stainable wood filler to fill in these areas.

Use it sparingly and only on visibly gapped areas. Don’t fill in every joint for no reason. You will end up with visible lines all over your joints. If you made sure your templates sit flush with each other, all of your joints should be nice and even. When you apply the wood filler, don’t get it on the surrounding areas. Keep it on the gaps only. After I applied the wood filler where it was needed, I stained it with the left over roof stain and its invisible.

I touched up the paint of the roof ridges and finials as well.

In the interior, I added a lot of baseboards but I ran out of basswood strips again before I was able to make it to the attic.

I finished all of the interior trim that was left to do and did touch ups here and there.

On the exterior, I also did touch ups with paint and spackle. I printed out some brick to match the chimneys and glued it around the foundation of the dollhouse that didn’t have lattice. I painted the gazebo post spindles with some brown accents. I wanted to bring some of the brown that was on the rest of the dollhouse to the gazebo so it brings the entire scheme together.

This was quite a build but regardless of it's size, it was not a complicated build. Most of the time in this build is taken in planning out how to finish inaccessible areas before they are closed off. There are three inaccessible areas on this dollhouse:
  • The front entry.
  • The second floor stairwell room over the front entry.
  • The third floor attic over the second floor stairwell room.
Basically everything located in the front left corner of the dollhouse, when looking at the dollhouse from the front, is inaccessible. This not only poses a challenge while building and having to decorate at the same time but it will also pose a problem when adding baseboards, crown moulding and window treatments.

Also the front, left, back, sections of the dollhouse are complicated to figure out. You just don’t know what the instructions mean by the “front” of the dollhouse because of its L shape. Well, the front of the dollhouse is the wall with the front door and tower, not the wide side wall with the kitchen door, which is generally what you would think of as the front, because of its width.

Shingling the dollhouse is a pretty large undertaking so the templates will make it a lot easier.

Extra wallpaper is a must if you want to wallpaper the entire attic. Have double the amount of what you would normally use and wallpaper all your roof panels before assembly.

Be very careful with your wall assembly. There are so many walls on this dollhouse that it's easy to accidentally skip one on the instructions. I suggest you mark with a pencil each step in the wall assembly process as you complete it to make sure you didn’t omit any walls. It will be very difficult if not impossible to put in a wall you missed after the others are already up around it.

This Garfield Dollhouse took about 34 days to complete.






















Browse through this dollhouses gallery here.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

I would like to hinge my house to get better access. Where would you suggest the hinges to be placed? Thanks, Debi

Gina said...

Debi, it all depends on where you want the better access. This dollhouse kit already has removable panels for better access and viewing. You can apply hinges to any one of those panels so that they open and close without the need of taking them off.

I recommend you go to the craft store and buy hinges that are available at the wood crafting section of the store. Those hinges are not too large but also not too small. Miniature hinges will not work on dollhouse panels.

These dollhouses are 1/8" plywood so you will have to apply strip wood to the edges of the panel, where you will apply the hinges, so that it is thick enough to hold the hinges in place. If not, your screws will go right through the panel.

I recommend you browse through my Gloucester and Cheltenham assembly blogs, since those dollhouses have hinged panels and they might be of help.

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for the info.I have another question. How many windows are there. I have heard of windows that open. Would this house benefit from them and what would be the cost and size, if you know. Thanks Debi

Gina said...

Hi Debi,

Unfortunately, I no longer own this Garfield Dollhouse so I can't count the windows or measure the window openings for you. You would have to browse my photos of the dollhouse and count them that way. The windows are all of varying sizes so you would have to take that into consideration.

There was a kit available, as an upgrade, for working windows but it was not for the Garfield Dollhouse. It was for the Pierce and no longer available.

If you want pre-assembled working windows for the Garfield, you will have to purchase them each, individually, from your miniatures dealer. They are not inexpensive and this dollhouse has a lot of windows. The most popular brand of pre-assembled, working components is Houseworks.

You will have to modify the window openings because tab and slot dollhouses do not have universal door and window measurements. Some windows openings you might have to cut larger for the windows to fit and others, you will have to add strip wood to make them smaller.

Miniature websites, will have the window sizes posted for each type of window available.

 

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