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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Monday, September 15

The Lily Dollhouse Day 01

Click on Newer Posts at the bottom of each page so you can see each day of the construction.

Don't forget to read all our How To Guides, listed to the left, for proper dollhouse assembly and finishing information.

The Lily By Corona Concepts

I assembled this dollhouse for a second time, blogged the assembly and did some changes to the finishes. I suggest you view those changes and the more detailed instructions before you begin assembly. You can view them here.

Take note that a part of this dollhouse has been mislabeled on the schematics sheet. On Sheet Two, the part labeled as Roof Verge Board Trim, is actually Porch Roof Front Trim Piece #2 and the part labeled Porch Roof Front Trim #2 is really the Roof Verge Board Trim. You will need this information if your parts fall off the sheets and you need to label them.

This dollhouse has double hung windows and I tried my best to explain how to assemble them. If you are still uncertain about their assembly, there is a great tutorial by Deb Roberts that is more detailed. You can see it here.


This dollhouses box is pretty large and quite heavy. I took all the sheets out of the box and propped them up against a wall, where they won't be in the way. Propping them up this way also makes it much easier to find the sheet number I’m looking for because I just flip them like a book.

Some miniaturists believe that propping up your sheets in this manner warps them but I’ve never had the experience of this happening. Wood warping should never be an issue because even if it does warp, as you build the dollhouse, the wood always straightens out.

Today I put the dollhouse shell together. The shell of this dollhouse goes together pretty simply. I didn’t encounter any significantly hard areas. I put the dollhouse together using tacky glue and as usual, I went over all the joints with wood glue. Take your time and don’t skimp out on the glue, apply it liberally. If it drips, wipe it up. Wallpaper will cover the walls anyways. You would be amazed at how much glue your wood will soak up so all the glue you see now will disappear once its dry.

Clamp everywhere and make sure all of your joints are flush and fitting tightly together. Go over the dollhouse several times to make sure you didn’t miss a spot.

I need for this whole shell to dry thoroughly before I can add anything to it.










6 comments:

caitlin said...

That's it. If I opened a box and found the schematics all messed up, I'd prolly call it quits right then and there! I know you've had this problem before, but you always seem to breeze thru them. Especially since you have everything organized so well.

Gina said...

lol

Believe me, when you find out the schematics are messed up, you know theres going to be nothing but trouble ahead.

Christy said...

Thank you!!! Bless you!!! Thank you!!'

Anonymous said...

This is my first dollhouse. I have stained my floors, primed my walls, and painted my ceilings white before assembling. Was this a good idea? I have not assembled the shell yet. I was wondering whether to varnish the floors, and if so, what type of varnish you recommend, and whether to do this before or after assembling the shell. Also, should I varnish the window trim, door trim, doors,etc.? (I am using a dark-ish almost reddish stain for trim and a more honey-ish stain for the floors.) Also, should I use wood glue for the joints on already stained (and maybe varnished floors)? and what about on the joints from walls to ceilings? walls to walls? I have found your site so helpful, I don't know how I ever would have gotten back to my dollhouse without it, thank you very much. I'm sorry to bother you with questions to which you may have already posted answers. Thanks again, Elizabeth

Gina said...

Hi Elizabeth,

All interior finishing should be done after the shell is assembled. This protects your finishes from glue and damage during assembly. The only time you need to finish anything before assembly, is if it will become unaccessible afterwards. Having said that, priming before assembly is fine. If you stained the dollhouses floors before assembly and you plan to keep them, you will probably have to clean up any glue and repair any damage to them afterwards.

You may varnish any stained parts of the dollhouse. I recommend acrylic based interior gloss varnish for your dollhouse. You can find it in your craft store. Sometimes they are in the glue aisle but other times, they could be in the painting aisle where all of the artist brushes and easels are. Ceramcoat and Liquitex are good brands to go for. They are fume free and will not interfere with glue adhesion. Never varnish any areas that you have to apply glue to, just to be safe. This varnish comes in matte, satin and gloss finishes.

You should always use wood glue on all of your dollhouses joints but since you stained your floors before assembly, you will not longer be able to. Wood glue does not dry clear. It will be visible along the bottom joints of your floors. I suggest you go over your joints with tacky glue instead. Baseboards will hide any color variation.

As far as the ceiling and wall joints go, you can use wood glue since they are only primed and not finished yet.

Anonymous said...

In assembled dollhouses for 25 years and found the Lily the most difficult and challenging of all kits.
I would never attempt to do another.

 

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