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Whether you're an experienced builder or new to the hobby, I've gathered material from all over the web to produce the most complete, tab and slot, dollhouse assembly blog you can find.
Tip: 1. Read through all of the instructions that came with your kit first. 2. Find your dollhouse in this blog by using the drop down menu below. 3. Read through the building process in its entirety before beginning your project. Happy building!

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Custom Rehab Week 01

This upcoming project is a little different from my usual ones. This is a rehab. This custom dollhouse belongs to a neighbor and she was ...

Saturday, February 24

Greenleaf/Corona Concepts Furniture Kits

These dye-cut, tab and slot, furniture kits can be finished any way you like. You don’t have to hunt for pre-assembled furniture that has a specific look which may not be available. You can create exactly what you're looking for with these kits. From Victorian to country, colonial to contemporary, you can create it all. You can even create a particular era you would like to bring back. The possibilities are endless.

If you order all of the sets, you get enough furniture to furnish a pretty good size dollhouse. If assembled correctly, these furniture kits are strong enough for small hands to play with. They are also perfect for beginners, who want to experiment with decorating before taking the plunge to more expensive miniature furniture.

I used wood glue and small clamps to assemble them. You can also use tacky or white glue. I only had two clamps but I suggest you get at least four so you can reduce waiting time for the glue to dry. These small clamps are a must versus masking tape for building furniture kits since most of the parts fit together without tabs or slots to hold them in place.

You can stain all of the pieces beforehand and then assemble them but, I figured the glue would adhere better to unfinished wood. Use your glue sparingly. It does not take much of it to hold these light weight and small parts together. If you use too much, you will be able to see it later on when you stain because stain does not cover glue. Make sure your glue remains only at the joints and clean up, with a damp cloth, any drips or spreading glue. You can also sand any extra glue off once the item has dried.

If you decide to stain your parts first, let them dry thoroughly over night before you glue them together, so the glue can adhere better. Never varnish your furniture before assembly or the glue will not adhere to the material.

Always remember to stain all the pieces before adding mirrors, pictures, plastics or upholstery to them.

If you plan on using paint, paint the pieces individually before assembling them, if they are to be different colors. Use the same technique applicable to a dollhouse. These tiny pieces are harder to paint different colors once assembled, so always paint before assembly. Use your paint sparingly to avoid blobs and let everything dry between coats.

I put my wood glue into bottles that had a fine steel tip. You can purchase various size tips. This is the same bottle method for glue that I use to build 1/144th" scale dollhouses. The glue squeezes out nice and neat and in fine small amounts. Perfect for tiny parts.

Upholstery was easy to do. This was the only time I used hot glue. I used some fabric scraps I bought at the fabric store. Try to get them with small designs if you don’t choose solids. That way it looks more in scale. I glued the fabric to the back of the cardboard provided. I used a pen to flatten out the fabric into the glue so there’s no hard globs left. Don’t use your fingers, this glue is hot. Hot glue helps the fabric stick quickly so it doesn’t shift or loosen while positioning.

Instead of cotton balls like the instructions suggest, I used craft felt to pad my upholstery because I already had it on hand. You can definitely use cotton balls. I cut the felt to the shape of the cardboard. I used four layers for fluffiness. For the mattress I used six. I made a bedspread for the bed with the same fabric and used one felt sheet inside to give it fluffyness. I ordered some mini lace that I plan on adding around the pillows and the bedspread.

The hutch of the living room is closed, so you can't put items inside once the trim is glued on. I figured that if you don’t permanently glue on the trim with the plastic door, you can put ornaments inside later on. I plan on gluing the plastic to the trim, but I'm “gluing” the trim on with non-permanent museum wax. That way I can remove it and put things inside the hutch later, and then press it back in place when done. I can't do it until I finish staining everything.

The kitchen stove does not bring a plastic piece so that it looks like there’s glass on the oven door. I made my own by cutting off a square piece off of a plastic table cover and gluing that behind the oven door.

I placed all of the assembled pieces that I will be staining inside of this box. I have to take it outside, stain it and then let it dry inside in a well-ventilated area. You can certainly use faux stain to avoid the fumes.

Once the glue dried over night, I stained all of the furniture and it is finally dry.

I finished the upholstery for the bed by adding the lace.

I added all of the mirrors and clock faces. I assembled the furniture that couldn’t be put together without staining first as well.

The mirrors for the furniture look very realistic. Don’t take the plastic film off of them until you're ready to glue them in place. They are plastic, so they can get easily scratched. Once they are glued on, make sure nothing rubs against them to prevent damage. I also put the painting in their frames.

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